"Set in the heart of Quebec’s Gully Walls, No More Mr Nice Guy challenges climbers with a technical 5.10b corner-to-slab sequence. Its well-protected bolt line and crisp movements appeal to those eager for precise footwork and balance on solid rock."
No More Mr Nice Guy in the Gully Walls of Mont Rigaud offers a compelling challenge for climbers ready to push into 5.10+ territory amidst Quebec’s rugged landscapes. This single-pitch route demands precise footwork as it ascends a right-facing corner that sweeps into a slab—the section where the crux asserts itself sharply. Here, climbers must engage balance and body tension as they transition to a high, shallow corner, testing technical skill on well-protected, yet sustained terrain. Holding the left arete and pressing upward with a confident high step above the final bolt leads to a satisfying finish that rewards patience and poise.
For anyone not quite ready to commit to the full 5.10b crux, a lower angled 5.8 alternative peels off to the left in a different right-facing corner, offering a less demanding option but with its own neat movement and flow. The route is well-equipped with five bolts and top anchors, providing a safe, straightforward framework ideal for both sport climbing and top-rope setups.
The approach to the climb is uncomplicated, positioned within the expansive Gully Walls sector of Mont Rigaud, a known spot for local climbers that reveals a variety of faces and angles suited for all skill levels. The rock here is solid and textured, lending good friction underfoot, a crucial factor for securing those high steps and negotiating the slab portion of the climb.
Climbers can expect a relatively short engagement with the route—typically around 30 to 40 feet of vertical ascent—making it a suitable project for refining technique or as a confidence builder before moving to longer, more committing routes nearby. The area, set against the backdrop of Montérégie’s vibrant forests and quiet natural surroundings, heightens the experience, with subtle sounds of rustling leaves and occasional birdcalls framing the climb.
Timing your session is best centered on warmer months when the walls are dry and sun exposure is moderate, usually mid-morning to early afternoon. Footwear with sticky rubber will be a clear advantage for tackling the slab and the high steps, and climbers should come prepared with a harness, quickdraws, and a rope for either sport or TR climbing.
This route invites climbers who appreciate a focused, technical challenge in a setting that balances accessibility with the thrill of a demanding move sequence. It’s a compact, intense slice of Quebec’s climbing scene that can sharpen your skills and enrich your sense of adventure.
Although well-bolted, climbers should stay vigilant on the slab section where footing can be sparse and subtle. The final high step above the last bolt requires cautious balance—avoid rushing this move to prevent slips. The rock quality is generally solid but test cracks and edges as you ascend.
Arrive mid-morning to catch the optimal sun angle on the slab section.
Sticky rubber climbing shoes improve grip on the slab and high step moves.
Consider trying the 5.8 variation if warm-up or easing into the grade.
Check the weather forecast to avoid damp rock conditions, which can make the slab slick.
This climb is protected by five bolts and a secure top anchor, making it well-suited for both sport and top-rope climbing. Quickdraws for bolts and a standard climbing rope are all you need.
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