"Set along California’s tempestuous Redwood Coast, No Man’s Land offers a compelling finger traverse bolted for safety yet demanding steady focus. This 100-foot pitch blends oceanic exposure with technical movement, presenting climbers an adventurous alternative to typical vertical routes."
No Man's Land offers a singular experience perched on the High Bluffs of California’s Redwood Coast, where sea air and rugged rock meet to challenge both your technique and nerve. This one-pitch sport climb breaks from traditional vertical assaults, instead leading you on a horizontal voyage—an extended finger traverse skirting a massive boulder above the wind-carved beach. The route began life as a daring unprotected line named “Are Ye Headed For Davey Jone's Locker~,” a nod to the treacherous runouts and unforgiving nature of this cliffside. Today, titanium glue-in bolts lend security without sacrificing the raw exposure and commitment this traverse demands.
From the moment you clip the first bolt, the climb requires careful footwork and fluid finger locks as you move steadily left, holding onto sharp edges and occasional huecos. The ocean's voice carries up beneath you, the chill of coastal winds brushing against your skin reminding you of how close the sea truly is. The path calls for quiet concentration; a wrong move could mean a long swing out over the beach below. The easiest safe option is to focus on the finger traverse beneath the bolts—tempting to climb higher to the hueco puts you in dangerous runout territory.
Reaching the end of the 100-foot pitch, you can join up with the build-up to the nearby Guilty Pleasure climb, or call it a day at Magellan’s Voyage. Regardless of your choice, the route's blend of technical traverse and scenic atmosphere creates a unique slice of the Redwood Coast’s outdoor climbing scene. Its moderate 5.9- rating belies the sustained finger strength and balance needed to maintain progress without wasted effort.
This sport line thrives on its coastal location, presenting humid sea breezes and cooler temperatures that can soften the friction but keep you fresh for every movement. Arriving early in the day lets you avoid the strongest afternoon winds and catch the morning light illuminating the beach below. Whether you're a local or visiting climber eager to break the mold of vertical crags, No Man's Land rewards with its rare style and steadfast protection. Bolts balance security and respect for the natural rock, so your focus remains on technique and flowing through this adventurous traverse.
If you prepare with sturdy shoes gripping for delicate edges, tape for skin defense in the finger cracks, and hydration to manage coastal air’s dry chill, you’ll find No Man's Land a memorable venture. Consider the tides before you go—the beach below is a reminder of the constant pull of the ocean shaping this rugged coast. This is climbing that engages you not just physically but with the elemental forces surrounding you, a thoughtful challenge tethered to the pulse of the Pacific.
The route’s positioning above a rocky beach means that falling results in a pendulum swing; adequate protection and controlled movement are essential. The bolts are reliable titanium glue-ins but remain spaced enough that runouts are possible if you stray above the line. Avoid traversing high above the bolts to minimize risk.
Focus on following the finger traverse below the bolts to avoid unprotected sections above.
Start early to catch cooler temperatures and lighter coastal winds.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber suited for sharp edges and delicate foot placements.
Check tide schedules to understand the beach access conditions below the route.
First anchor is secured with 6 bolts, while the second anchor features 8 bolts, all titanium glue-ins that provide solid, corrosion-resistant protection for this exposed coastal traverse.
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