HomeClimbingNew Orleans

New Orleans at The Hobo Crag

Lake Tahoe, California USA
trad
single pitch
reachy moves
bolted anchor
lake tahoe
granite
intermediate
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
New Orleans
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"New Orleans offers a direct, engaging 30-foot trad climb at The Hobo Crag. Featuring large but spaced jugs that call for reach and precision, it’s a solid 5.10a route blending natural gear challenges with a bolted anchor finish."

New Orleans at The Hobo Crag

Carving a direct line from a sharp v-notch along the rugged face of The Hobo Crag, New Orleans offers a compelling, single-pitch trad climb that demands precision and reach. The route begins with a clean, vertical ascent before veering left along a subtle seam, finally angling back right towards the bolted anchor that crowns the climb. Large jugs punctuate the wall, spaced inconsistently to test both your strength and your ability to read the rock, as each move requires a calculated stretch or a controlled shake-out. The granite breathes beneath your fingertips—tactile, coarse, with every hold telling the immediate story of weather and wear. The approach weaves through the I-80 Corridor’s transitional woodland, where pine needles crunch underfoot and the crisp mountain air sharpens focus as you ready your rack.

This 30-foot climb, rated 5.10a, sits in a zone where bold reach meets solid technique. The protection setup calls for a single rack up to 0.75 inches and doubles in smaller sizes around 0.6 inches, inviting a thoughtful, minimalist rack to keep the rack light yet thorough. A bolted anchor offers a secure finish, ideal for a smooth take or a quick rappel. Climbers will appreciate the balance between natural gear and fixed hardware, blending adventure with safety in an accessible high-country setting.

Seasonally, the climb performs best in cooler months when the sun’s angle provides warming rays on the wall’s southwest-facing aspect, cutting through the mountain chill and drying the granite quickly after early morning dew or light precipitation. Afternoon shadows lengthen the exposure time for handholds, giving the climb a shifting texture from sun-lit warmth to shaded chill as the day turns.

For those stepping into the hike-in, the approach is straightforward yet deserves respect. A well-maintained trail carries trekkers through mixed forest terrain over roughly 15 minutes, covering uneven ground that demands sturdy footwear and attention. From the parking area along the highway, GPS coordinates 39.32611, -120.57861 guide you to the base where the climb awaits.

New Orleans is tailored for climbers who value a challenge that hits just beyond the familiar 5.9 comfort zone, emphasizing reach and balance on quality granite. Whether you’re putting together a push for the first time at The Hobo Crag or returning to polish your footwork and power moves, this route delivers sharp focus and gratification with every move.

Prepare for the climb by hydrating well before your approach and carrying layers to adapt to the mountain’s shifting microclimates. The clutch jugs and tactical gear placements reward careful planning and measured execution, making New Orleans an essential stop when exploring this slice of California’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Watch for polished footholds near the v-notch start, and be cautious of spacing between gear placements. The bolted anchor is reliable, but runners must be attentive to avoid gear drag on the route’s left-trending section.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is uneven; wear sturdy shoes with good grip.

Best climbed mid-morning to early afternoon for optimal sunlight.

Carry layered clothing to adjust for temperature changes on the wall.

Double-check placements with cams in the 0.6 inch range for security.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade fits a moderate upper-intermediate level, with reachy moves that introduce a crux around the middle section. Compared to nearby Lake Tahoe climbs, it leans slightly harder due to spacing and the need for confident gear placement.

Gear Requirements

Requires a single rack to 0.75 inch and doubles in 0.6 inch sizes. Bolted anchor for safe top-out or rappelling.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
reachy moves
bolted anchor
lake tahoe
granite
intermediate