"New Day Yesterday is a solid single-pitch trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Flying Fortress area. It offers a challenging chimney crux and a rewarding hangout in a generous alcove, perfect for climbers honing hand jam technique in a striking desert environment."
New Day Yesterday offers a distinct taste of Joshua Tree’s raw granite character, inviting climbers to engage with a chimney that demands both technical precision and calm endurance. Located within the rugged expanse of the Flying Fortress zone, this single-pitch route rises about 100 feet through a moderate chimney system. The climb challenges you early on with a tricky hand jam sequence—the true crux—that tests your grip strength and control. Above this demanding section, the terrain eases into more manageable hand jams where a well-earned break becomes possible within a spacious alcove. This natural rest spot lets you catch your breath, appreciate the rugged wilderness of the Wonderland of Rocks, and prepare for the final moderate push rated around 5.9.
Protection on New Day Yesterday leans heavily on solid hand and fist-sized placements, making it essential to have a well-rounded rack of cams covering those sizes to cover the chimney adequately. The rock’s rough texture provides reliable friction, but stable gear is crucial, especially at the crux moves where commitment and confidence in your placements merge. The approach follows established Joshua Tree paths through classic desert scrub and low juniper, with the area’s openness offering steady sunlight and broad views of the surrounding rock formations.
Timing your climb for cooler morning hours is advisable to avoid scorching afternoon heat that can bake the granite and sap your grip strength. Joshua Tree’s desert environment demands careful hydration planning, sun protection, and sturdy, sticky-soled shoes to handle both the approach terrain and the climb’s technical hand jamming. With a modest star rating reflecting its directness rather than bomb-proof quality, New Day Yesterday is well suited for climbers looking to sharpen their crack technique in a remote setting, balanced by the route’s straightforward nature beyond the initial crux.
Whether this is your first chimney climb or a refresh on hand jamming skills, the route’s focused length and engaging moves create a rewarding outing that pulls you into the distinctive Joshua Tree atmosphere. The area’s sparse vegetation and the sun-baked granite walls deliver an experience that is tactile and immediate, grounding the adventure in the desert’s stark natural beauty while demanding respect for its technical challenges.
The route relies on secure hand and fist-sized protection; loose placements can increase fall risk, especially in the chimney’s confined spaces. Approach with caution, as the desert environment can drain fluids rapidly and the granite gets intensely hot as the day progresses.
Start early to avoid intense midday heat on the rock surface.
Use shoes with sticky rubber for secure footing in the chimney’s narrow sections.
Hydrate thoroughly before and after the climb—desert air dehydrates quickly.
Watch your gear placements carefully in the crux to maintain confidence on difficult jams.
Bring a rack with a good range of hand and fist-sized cams. Placements are mostly solid but focus on tight-fitting gear around those sizes for climber security during the chimney crux and higher up the route.
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