On the eastern edge of Slamdance Buttress, My Grain Headache presents a compact yet engaging sport climb that challenges adventurers with its rugged granite face. This 30-foot route ascends a bolted line hugging the left side of the crag's east aspect, catching the eye of any climber scanning the walls below. The granite here is rough and coarse, demanding careful foot placement to avoid loose or friable sections that could unsettle your footing. Approaching the climb, you enter from the left, cautiously moving upward as you negotiate small, lichen-dusted holds that reward precision and balance. If you prefer a bolder approach, the line offers an option to drift rightward toward larger, more positive holds before the variations unify around the last bolt. The rock’s texture is a defining character: scratchy and honest, reminding climbers of the mountain’s raw nature without any polish or softness.

Equipped with just four bolts and a two-bolt anchor, the climb offers straightforward protection but requires respect for the older, somewhat scruffy rock surface. Rappelling after reaching the top is a quick 30-foot descent straight down, a convenient exit that keeps the adventure tight and efficient. Ideal for climbers who appreciate a brief, focused challenge rather than a sprawling pitch, My Grain Headache stands as a good introduction to the sport climbing available on Lily Mountain.

This route's location in the Estes Park Valley provides plenty of outdoor appeal beyond the rock. The approach traverses open mountain terrain accessible by established trails mapped within Colorado’s northern Front Range. Climbers will want to time this climb for early mornings or late afternoons to avoid the direct sun that can quickly heat the granite face, especially in summer. The moderate 5.8 rating signals a climb that feels approachable but benefits from careful footwork and an appreciation for the subtle complexities the rock presents.

Whether you’re breaking into sport climbing or looking to warm up on a brief route with character, My Grain Headache delivers a practical, no-nonsense experience. Remember to bring shoes with solid edge feel to manage the scruffier sections, and consider carrying quickdraws or a light rack suited for the four-bolt protection layout. Hydration and layered clothing are advisable, as weather in this part of Colorado can shift unexpectedly, turning a calm morning chilly by afternoon.

Ultimately, this climb invites you to engage directly with the mountain’s honest geology and straightforward challenge. It connects you to the spirit of Lily Mountain’s edges without any fluff—just hands on granite, bolts in place, and the quiet pulse of the Colorado high country humming nearby.