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Mustard Drippings: A Raw Trad Climb at Old Camp Bluff

South Lake Tahoe, California USA
yellow lichen
vertical crack
lieback
single pitch
trad protection
Sierra granite
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mustard Drippings
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mustard Drippings offers a compact yet demanding trad climb marked by bright yellow lichens and sharp crack systems. This single-pitch route combines technical hand jams and a steep lieback, perfect for climbers ready to test their crack skills within the serene beauty of Old Camp Bluff."

Mustard Drippings: A Raw Trad Climb at Old Camp Bluff

Mustard Drippings strikes immediately with its vivid splash of yellow lichen that claims the face like nature’s own graffiti—a bright invitation to climbers venturing to Old Camp Bluff. This one-pitch trad climb pushes you into a vertical crack that demands confident hand jams and precise footwork. After securing your place in the crack’s embrace, you veer around a distinctive horn, a pivot point that shakes up the rhythm before you lie back through a steep corner where your body is pressed close to the rock’s raw granite skin. The final section slices upward on another vertical crack, requiring steady nerves and sharp technique.

The route hints at flexibility, presenting a variation near the start: a bolt set in a curving feature to the left diversifies the ascent, offering a touch of sport climbing flavor before rejoining the main line at the horn. This variation can ease the grind off the ground and provides a slightly different perspective on the climb’s flow.

Situated along the quieter stretches of Silver Lake near the Carson Pass Highway, Mustard Drippings is embedded in a landscape defined by dense mixed pine and sweeping lake views beyond. The walk-in trails invite a crisp mountain air, blending the sounds of wind-stirred needles and distant birds with the whisper of effort on stone. Climbers will find this route accessible yet challenging, with technical gear placements demanding precise rack selection and steady nerves on small cams and nuts.

Gear-wise, traditional protection is your toolkit here. The cracks are clean but often narrow, favoring smaller cams and wires—expect to carefully evaluate placements as the route offers no fixed gear save the single bolt on the variation. This authentic trad experience rewards those prepared to craft a secure line through the vertical features.

Seasonally, late spring through early autumn is your best window, when the granite dries quickly and temperatures sit comfortably cool in the shade of the bluff. Early mornings, when the sun strikes the east-facing wall, provide excellent conditions to warm fingers and gear without overheating. Approach the climb wearing solid climbing shoes with sticky rubber, and bring plenty of water, given the fairly exposed approach trail and variable summer sun.

Mustard Drippings has earned mixed feedback—averaging moderate ratings—largely because while it is short and approachable, the moves pack punch at 5.10a and require honest technique. It’s not a beginner’s route, but it rewards intermediate climbers stepping into more technical cracks. The crux lies right around the horn transition, where controlling body tension and gear placement precision are essential.

Access to Old Camp Bluff is straightforward, with parking off Carson Pass Highway near established trailheads. The hike to the base is a brief, well-marked walk under tall pines, making it easy to carry gear without hassle. Keep an eye out for variable weather—summer thunderstorms can swing through quickly, turning slick surfaces into hazards.

Descent follows a short scramble down smooth ledges and talus fields, requiring careful footing especially if rock is damp or loose. No rappel is needed, making a clean walk-off approachable for those familiar with moderate off-route terrain.

For trad climbers seeking a slice of Sierra granite that offers straightforward yet satisfying movement, Mustard Drippings delivers a focused, gritty experience. This climb is a call to those who appreciate technical crack climbing balanced with the serene environment of the Lake Tahoe backcountry. With solid preparation and respect for its granite challenges, you’ll find an engaging session that sharpens crack skills and leaves you tuned to the subtle conversations between rock and climber.

Climber Safety

The approach trail is uneven and rocky; use caution to avoid twisted ankles. The climb features limited fixed protection except for one bolt variation, so be confident with your gear placements. Be vigilant for sudden weather changes, and avoid climbing on wet or damp granite which will be dangerously slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to catch the east-facing wall's morning sun for warming up cold fingers.

Bring a rack heavy on smaller cams and nuts for reliable protection.

Check weather forecasts carefully—summer thunderstorms can quickly make the rock slick.

Wear sturdy approach shoes; the trail is short but rocky and uneven.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels true to form with a short but sharp crux around the connecting horn where body tension and precise footwork are vital. It leans a bit stiff for the grade given the technical placements required and the physicality of the lieback section. Compared to other Lake Tahoe trad routes, it's a solid step up from lower 5.9 cracks and a worthy intro to more technical crack climbing.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack focused on small to medium cams and nuts is essential. Expect to place gear consistently, especially in the narrow vertical cracks. A single bolt is available on an alternate line to the left, which can ease the start if preferred.

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Tags

yellow lichen
vertical crack
lieback
single pitch
trad protection
Sierra granite