Mount Ulysses rises defiantly in the Muskwa Ranges of British Columbia, its west face offering a rugged alpine challenge that blends rock, snow, and glacier travel into one memorable ascent. The climb begins along a gritty rocky slope on the left side, climbing steadily until an impassable wall marks your transition point. Here, the mountain demands a shift—step onto the cold, sprawling glacier beneath a steep snow wall, where careful footing becomes essential. The glacier’s expanse tests your patience and focus, presenting a labyrinth of crevasses that crawl like sleeping giants beneath the snow’s surface. Maneuvering through these tricky sections requires both experience and respect for the hidden dangers lurking beneath.

Once past the crevasse fields, you emerge onto the summit ridge, greeted by a crisp breeze that sharpens the senses. Following the ridge’s left edge, the trail narrows and the exposure peaks, with crisp vistas opening toward the vast Northern Rockies. The final steps to the summit reward climbers with wide, panoramic views that stretch miles across British Columbia’s wild landscapes. It’s a place that demands stillness—a moment to breathe in the altitude and embrace the quiet power of the mountain.

For those preparing this trek, essentials include sturdy pickets and ice screws that will anchor you on icy passages. The ascent’s technical rating places it at a 4th class steep snow climb, emphasizing the need for sharp crampon skills and a confident stance on mixed terrain. Descending from the summit introduces its own set of challenges; the terrain drops away steeply enough that rappelling becomes not only quicker but sometimes the only safe option. Fortunately, heli-ski operations frequent this peak, leaving behind large wands near the summit—resources that can serve as reliable snow anchors or deadmen for your rappel anchors.

The approach to Mount Ulysses is remote and demands thorough logistical planning. Access routes may require a blend of hiking, glacier navigation, and technical climbing, all in variable weather and shifting snow conditions. Timing your climb for stable alpine weather and firm snowpack will enhance safety and efficiency. Hydration and layering become vital allies in a landscape where wind bites and sun intensity vary sharply with elevation.

Whether you’re an alpine climber seeking a rigorous single-pitch challenge or a mountaineer chasing panoramic untouched wilderness, the west face of Mt Ulysses offers a compelling draw. It’s an experience shaped by sharp edges, slow glacier stretches, and a summit ridge that rewards both the body’s endurance and the mind’s hunger for adventure.