On the southern edge of Mad River Gorge in Ohio, the MRG Southeast area, also known affectionately as the Darkside, offers climbers a cool refuge beneath generous canopies of shade. This inviting section rests on the south bank of the river, where sun-warmed cliffs give way to shaded walls that provide welcome relief during the warmer months. The area boasts a diverse range of sport climbs, seasoned with some trad lines and growing boulder problems, carving out a space that appeals to climbers of all skill levels and preferences.

The approach is refreshingly straightforward: from the parking lot, hikers pass a kiosk and descend a main stairwell before veering right onto a trail that runs alongside the river. Within a short 2 to 5 minute walk, depending on your chosen destination, you’ll find yourself at one of several crags. Clear Creek Crag appears first to the right, featuring some of the more challenging and brainy routes like Recycler (5.12b) and Slippery When Wet (5.10a). Farther down the trail lies the Overpass Area—located under the highway bridge—which presents additional climbing options on the right side of the river.

A quintessential highlight for anyone stepping onto real rock for the first time outdoors is Excellent Ella (5.6) on Dad’s Wall. This climb is perfectly suited for new leaders looking to build confidence and hone their trad skills in a controlled but authentic environment. The Dad’s Wall itself offers a host of climbs with varying difficulty, including the approachable yet fun Slingshot (5.8) and the more demanding Super Dads (5.10b). Meanwhile, the Amusement Wall will catch your eye with the classic CTB (5.10b), providing solid sport climbs with well-maintained bolts and predictable rock quality.

With around 30 established routes, most are bolted sport climbs, making gear-heavy rack-ups optional for many but trad gear remains essential for select lines. Boulderers are finding their footing here as well, with new problems springing up that offer short, powerful moves to complement the longer climbs.

The area sits at an elevation near 896 feet, surrounded by forested trails and views that shift with the seasons. Climbers report the rock quality as reliable, with moderate protection on sport routes and ample opportunities to test leadership and gear placement on trad lines. Weather-wise, the shade provides a natural cooling effect through the prime climbing months from spring through fall, though early season moisture and raindays can impact conditions.

Some standout bouldering problems include Crimp Slap (V3) and Fresh Squeezed (V6), while sport crags feature favorites like Razor Ledge (5.12a) and The Snatch (5.12c), which challenge even more advanced climbers looking to push their technical limits. Climbers enjoy the balance here — a spot where early season climbs are sheltered but summers stay manageable, and where the proximity to parking and easy trail access means squeezing in an afternoon session is both doable and satisfying.

Whether you’re drawn to the classic routes or newer bouldering lines, MRG Southeast serves up a practical playground full of character and variety amid the peaceful flow of the Mad River. Its accessible approach, combined with diverse terrain and quality rock, invites climbers to sharpen skills, enjoy nature’s quiet backdrop, and connect with a climbing community growing around this scenic Ohio corridor.