"Dad's Wall, also known as Glass Buttress, offers a dependable climbing experience in Ohio’s Mad River Gorge. From beginner-friendly routes like Excellent Ella to the challenging Super Dads, this area provides solid rock, easy access, and varied moderate climbs in a forested setting perfect for both skill-building and adventure."
Dad's Wall, known locally as Glass Buttress, stands as a compelling destination for climbers seeking a blend of challenge and accessibility tucked within Ohio’s Mad River Gorge. At an elevation near 900 feet, this crag draws climbers of varying experience levels, thanks largely to its approachable moderate routes and the standout classics that have earned local acclaim. The routes frequently remain dry after rain, making it a dependable choice when conditions elsewhere might be less forgiving.
Arriving at Dad's Wall requires navigating a well-maintained trailhead just after the kiosk atop the main stairs. A short walk down the steps and a right-hand turn onto the primary trail leads you roughly 100 feet to the striking arete where Excellent Ella lives. This beginner-friendly 5.6 climb offers a perfect introduction for new lead climbers or those reacquainting themselves with rock leading. Just around the corner to the left, the other climbs unfold along the wall—easy moderates which include climbs like S Crack and Chain Mail Hula Skirt. These routes maintain a reputation for solid rock quality and approachable climbing, attracting those eager to refine their skills without feeling overwhelmed.
For more seasoned climbers, the wall presents Super Dads, a classic 5.10b route that tests technique and endurance within a manageable yardstick. J-Ella, another 5.10b climb, also offers a rewarding challenge and blends well into the overall accessibility of the area’s line-up. The concentration of solid moderate routes makes Dad’s Wall a versatile playground for weekend excursions or skill-building sessions.
The setting itself enhances the climbing experience. Located within the broad expanse of Mad River Gorge’s southeast sector, the area benefits from a forested backdrop and relative seclusion while remaining easy to reach. The trail system leads you through a cool, shaded corridor that buffers the summer heat, making climbs here comfortable even on warmer days. Weather averages show the prime climbing window spreads through spring to fall, when precipitation days are fewer and temperatures moderate.
Gear requirements are straightforward—standard single-pitch rack setups suit the climbs well. Protection is generally reliable with good opportunities for natural placements and bolts on the more technical lines. The rock is known for its dependable texture and grip, with few surprises, offering climbers confidence in each move.
Descents are uncomplicated; most routes top out on ledges with easy walkoffs or short downclimbs. This simplicity allows climbers to focus energy on their ascent rather than intricate escapes. A quick exit trail from the climbing zone leads back to the main path, completing a satisfying loop for a half-day or full-day outing.
Whether you’re gearing up to lead Excellent Ella for the first time or seeking the challenge of Super Dads, Dad’s Wall delivers a balanced, practical climbing experience steeped in Ohio’s outdoor culture. It’s an ideal location for those who want to mix learning, adventure, and dependable conditions without the uncertainty of more remote or unpredictable crags. With solid routes, easy access, and a welcoming atmosphere, it invites climbers to return frequently and explore each line’s unique character.
While the rock holds well and routes stay dry after rain, climbers should still inspect gear placements carefully and stay vigilant of potential slippery spots right after a downpour. The approach trail is well-maintained but fairly steep in sections.
Approach via the main stairs and kiosk, then turn right on the trail to reach Excellent Ella quickly.
Most routes stay dry shortly after rain, making Dad's Wall a go-to option when weather has been unsettled.
Expect shaded climbing conditions which help keep the rock pleasant in warmer months.
Descend by walking off or downclimbing short ledges – no complex rappel required.
Standard single-pitch sport gear works well here. Routes are bolted with reliable protection, and natural placements supplement the experience on moderate routes. A single rack with quickdraws is sufficient.
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