"Mr. O'Clock delivers a precise, single-pitch trad experience at Squamish’s Milkman’s Wall. With technical flakes, a punchy bulge protected by small cams, and a juggy traverse, it offers a compact challenge that tests protection skills and movement in classic granite."
Mr. O'Clock is a concise yet engaging trad climb that challenges you with technical moves on a single 50-foot pitch at Squamish’s Milkman’s Wall. From the base, the route immediately grabs your attention: robust right-facing flakes lead you upward, demanding precise footwork and thoughtful gear placement. As you approach the bulge, a small cam snugly fits to protect the powerful move required to surmount it, pushing your strength and balance. Beyond the bulge, a shallow left-facing corner opens, inviting a confident entry into the next section. Here, the holds become more generous, with a series of solid jugs guiding you leftward in a traverse that feels equal parts deliberate and fluid. The climb culminates in a mantle move onto a comfortable shelf crowned with fixed chains—a satisfying end to the effort.
Located within the iconic Murrin Park near Squamish, British Columbia, this route offers a snapshot of the area's granite character: slightly weathered rock with enough features to test traditional protection skills and route reading in a natural setting. The Milkman's Wall’s moderate height ensures this climb can be approached as a short but intense session, ideal for warm-up or as a focused technique builder for trad climbers honing their crack and mantle skills.
Gear-wise, the route favors a combination of small cams, nuts, and a mid-sized piece around a half camalot to secure the key moves. The protection is straightforward, yet demands attention at the bulge and in the left-facing corner where placements can be delicate but reliable with proper sizing. Expect a solid offering of gear opportunities, particularly in the corner system, where careful placement pays off in confidence and safety.
Access to Mr. O'Clock is straightforward from the popular hiking trails leading up to Milkman’s Wall, though keeping a close eye on the granite slabs underfoot is essential—wet conditions can quickly turn slippery. Early season or dry summer days provide the best climbing window, as afternoon sun warms the face making holds friendlier to grip and the rock less likely to be damp.
For climbers keen to explore Squamish’s diverse trad options, Mr. O’Clock serves as a measured but rewarding test, blending technical crack climbing with engaging face moves that demand focus and solid protection skills. With a rating of 5.10+, it strikes a balance between challenge and accessibility, and its short length makes it approachable for a wide range of climbers looking to sharpen their trad repertoire in a stunning coastal environment.
Whether you’re on your way to longer multi-pitch routes or honing your trad technique, this climb rewards measured movement and careful gear choices with a unique slice of Squamish climbing that is accessible yet thoughtful. Prepare with proper gear, time your climb in dry conditions, and expect a climb that feels grounded in rock, technique, and the subtle shifts of a granite wall that commands respect and engagement.
Be mindful of the rock quality near the bulge; the cam placement is crucial as fall potential at this section is more serious. Slippery slabby approaches become hazardous when wet—time your climb accordingly and always test footholds before committing.
Start early to avoid wet or slick rock, especially after rain.
Check your mid-sized camalot placement carefully to protect the bulge.
Wear shoes with good edging ability for the flakes and traverse.
Pack tape or gloves if your hands are sensitive; some flake edges can be sharp.
Bring a rack including small nuts and cams for the initial flakes and corner section, plus a mid-sized camalot (.5) to protect the powerful move over the bulge. Small cams and nuts secure the tricky placements in the left-facing corner.
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