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More Moss than Gloss

Running Springs, California United States
hand crack
chimney
single pitch
trad gear
moderate difficulty
sun exposure
San Bernardino Mountains
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
More Moss than Gloss
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"More Moss than Gloss is a solid 5.9- trad crack that opens with a clean hand jam before easing into a surprisingly comfortable chimney. Perfect for trad leaders seeking a single-pitch challenge in the San Bernardino Mountains, it offers reliable gear and mellow descent options."

More Moss than Gloss

More Moss than Gloss offers a straightforward but rewarding crack climb on the hungover wall’s left side, a quiet contender amidst the more challenging neighbors that test your technical skills. This 50-foot trad route carves an inviting path through clean rock, beginning with a solid hand crack that demands precise finger and hand jams at a 5.9- difficulty level. As you ascend, the crack widens into a chimney section that, despite its daunting appearance, provides surprisingly comfortable holds and a steady rhythm, making it accessible for climbers ready to push into chimney technique without discomfort. The rock’s texture carries the subtle traces of weather, with faint moss patches ignoring the route’s name by adding subtle grip where you need it most. This line naturally divides the steeper, more vertical face to the left from a slabby incline to the right, creating a striking visual boundary and a practical option for climbers looking for solid trad climbing without the commitment or consequence of a multi-pitch endeavor. Protection placements are friendly here, with gear accepted up to 3.5 inches, allowing confident runners to secure placements with ease. The belay anchors comfortably on natural gear, with the option to walk off or traverse over to the bolted anchors on the adjacent High Spark Of Low Heeled Boys route for descent. Situated in the San Bernardino Mountains near Running Springs, the approach involves manageable terrain and the rock catches sunlight in the afternoon, warming up as the day progresses. This route rewards focus and steady technique, providing a pulse of adventure with enough margin to keep it welcoming for trad climbers stepping up their game.

Climber Safety

Watch for moss patches early on—they soften the rock but can be slippery when wet. The chimney’s wider stance requires secure footwork and attentiveness to protection placements to avoid rope drag or pendulums. The approach involves some loose terrain patches; sturdy shoes and careful footing are advised.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Arrive mid to late afternoon for optimal sun exposure on the wall, which warms the rock and dries damp spots.

Wear sticky shoes with a medium profile to balance crack jamming and smearing on the slabby sections.

Bring extra slings for extending gear placements in the chimney to reduce rope drag.

Plan to walk off via the bolted anchors on High Spark of Low Heeled Boys for a quick and safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9- route presents a solid challenge that feels true to grade, with the initial hand crack demanding careful jamming technique before easing into a chimney that adds a mix of body positioning and unique gear placements. The grade is approachable for intermediate climbers, with no surprise cruxes, making the rating feel straightforward but engaging. Compared to nearby 5.11 neighbors, this line offers a comfortable step down in intensity but still serves up valuable crack and chimney experience.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear sized up to 3.5 inches fits well throughout the crack and chimney. Bring a standard rack with a range of cams, including larger cams for the chimney section to secure reliable protection.

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Tags

hand crack
chimney
single pitch
trad gear
moderate difficulty
sun exposure
San Bernardino Mountains