HomeClimbingMoose and Squirrel

Moose and Squirrel: A Bold Alpine Trad Challenge in Lee Vining Canyon

Lee Vining, California USA
trad
alpine
single pitch
undercling roof
5.10a crux
Lee Vining Canyon
Tioga Pass
exposed
Sierra Eastside
Length: 165 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Moose and Squirrel
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Moose and Squirrel presents an intense single-pitch trad challenge on the Sierra Eastside, combining a technical 5.10a undercling roof with alpine exposure. Set in Lee Vining Canyon, this route demands precise gear placements and rewards climbers with sweeping views and a taste of the high alpine environment."

Moose and Squirrel: A Bold Alpine Trad Challenge in Lee Vining Canyon

Moose and Squirrel offers climbers a compelling alternative to the classic "Speed of Life," carving out a distinct path that demands focus and technical skill high on the Sierra Eastside. This single-pitch, 165-foot climb snakes up the rock face in Lee Vining Canyon, just off the high alpine road of Tioga Pass. The ascent begins at the first belay ledge of "Speed of Life" before veering into a sustained sequence marked by a challenging undercling roof rated 5.10a—the crux move that tests both finger strength and body positioning. The rock underfoot feels solid yet varied, demanding precise footwork as you navigate the vertical limestone terrain. Above, the alpine air carries the crisp scent of pine and the distant clang of rockfall echoes quietly through the bowl, reminding you of the mountain’s wild presence.

The setting itself is ripe for exploration—Lee Vining Canyon holds a rugged charm, offering panoramic views across the Sierra Nevada’s eastern slopes. From here, climbers often spot the glint of Tioga Pass Road winding far below and the alpine ridges stretching endlessly toward the horizon. This climb isn’t just about the physical moves; it’s about connecting with an environment shaped by time and weather, where each hold feels like a conversation between climber and stone.

Gear selection is straightforward but essential: a standard trad rack manages the protection well, placing cams and nuts in textured cracks and occasional ledges that reward careful placement. The alpine exposure adds an exhilarating edge to the experience, while the moderate approach ensures you arrive energized rather than exhausted. Timing your ascent for early morning helps you avoid the heat and enjoy prime light, with the wall catching sun that gradually warms the cooler mountain air.

After sending the line, a controlled descent awaits. The descent follows a walk-off path that loops back into Lee Vining Canyon, offering a mix of scree and fir-covered sections. Access to the climb requires a short hike from Tioga Road via established trail systems—well-marked and manageable within 20 to 30 minutes—allowing you to preserve strength for the technical challenges ahead.

In all, Moose and Squirrel blends the thrill of alpine trad climbing with a clear, rewarding line that appeals to adventurers ready to push into the 5.10 territory without the fuss of multi-pitch complexity. The rock’s character, the demanding crux, and the panoramic setting come together to create a memorable experience rich in both challenge and beauty.

Climber Safety

Rock quality on Moose and Squirrel is generally sound, but the crux undercling roof demands careful protection placements to minimize fall risk. The alpine environment also brings rapid weather changes—watch for early afternoon storms and be prepared accordingly. The descent trail is straightforward but can be loose in sections; sturdy footwear is essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length165 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid midday sun and warming rock temperatures.

Bring a full trad rack including small to medium cams for the varied crack sizes.

Double-check gear placements on the undercling roof to ensure safety at the crux.

Allow 20-30 minutes for the approach from Tioga Road using the main trail into Lee Vining Canyon.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating on Moose and Squirrel feels appropriately challenging, with the undercling roof serving as the definitive crux that elevates the difficulty. While not a relentless pump, this move requires solid technique and strength. Compared to other climbs in Lee Vining Canyon, it holds a respectable technical edge without being overly stiff. Climbers familiar with local 5.10 face climbs will find this route a worthy benchmark.

Gear Requirements

Regular trad rack is recommended for Moose and Squirrel. The route features classic crack placements for cams and nuts, with no fixed gear installed. Pay close attention to the undercling roof section where precise pro placements are critical.

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Tags

trad
alpine
single pitch
undercling roof
5.10a crux
Lee Vining Canyon
Tioga Pass
exposed
Sierra Eastside