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Moonstruck at December Wall: A Technical Warmup on St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
mixed protection
cruxy move
low bolt
technical cracks
short pitch
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Moonstruck
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Moonstruck sits at the far left of December Wall, offering a gritty 80-foot warmup with mixed trad and sport protection. It’s a route that sharpens your technical skill without relying on flashy holds, perfect for honing movement on varied rock in Lyons, Colorado."

Moonstruck at December Wall: A Technical Warmup on St. Vrain Canyon

Moonstruck offers a gritty introduction to climbing on the southern face of December Wall, sitting at the left edge of this rugged crag above the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. Although it lacks polished allure, this 80-foot route challenges climbers with a mix of sport and traditional protection that sharpens both skill and focus. The rock here carries a weathered, slightly dusty texture that tests your commitment without flashy holds to catch your eye; it's a climb that demands attention to subtle features rather than broad obvious jugs.

Starting near the base, climbers encounter a low bolt protecting the initial moves, which are deceptively easy terrain but feel oddly exposed with the bolt seemingly out of place. Shortly after, the route tenses up into a demanding crux — a move that tightens grip and stance, pushing your technique beyond simple laybacks or jams. Above this, the line eases into a series of shorter, more technical sequences guarded by trad gear placements that stretch from tiny micro cams to gold Camalots in the #2 size range. These sections require steady footwork and careful gear choices as the rock's edges and cracks shift in angle and texture.

The approach to December Wall is straightforward but requires some attention to detail: hikers follow a well-trodden path along the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, passing through open pine and scattered brush before arriving at the base. Expect roughly a 15 to 20-minute walk from the parking area, crossing uneven ground and occasional loose rocks.

For climbers targeting Moonstruck, timing your ascent to early morning or late afternoon helps avoid the full heat of the sun, as the wall faces mostly south and can bake in direct sunlight during midday summer hours. Layer your clothing accordingly and bring enough water to stay hydrated amid the dry Colorado air.

Gear-wise, a combination rack is essential. The mixed protection setup means sport climbers should come prepared with a full cam set from micros up to larger sizes, and a handful of quickdraws to clip the bolts efficiently. The rock, while generally solid, has patches where placement judgment matters — test each piece before committing to the moves.

Descending is a simple walk-off left around the corner of the wall, but expect a scramble over loose talus and vegetation. Take care on the descent as rocks can shift underfoot.

Moonstruck’s appeal lies not in glamour but in its practical challenge — it’s a route that demands focus and rewards attentiveness to rock and gear. For those warming up or stepping into trad climbing on the St. Vrain Canyons crags, it offers a hands-on lesson in balancing bolt protection with the trust required for gear placements. This climb is an unembellished but effective introduction to the area’s character and technical demands.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on loose rocks around the base and the descent; the lower bolt on easy terrain can give a false sense of security, so maintain control from the start. Seasonal weather can dry out cracks affecting gear placements.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the southern-facing wall’s full sun exposure.

Test each trad placement carefully; the rock can be uneven in places.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability for technical moves.

Expect a 15-20 minute walk-in on a semi-rooted, rocky trail to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels appropriately challenging, with a notably stiff crux that pushes climbers beyond typical warmup difficulty. The mix of sport bolts and finger-to-hand-sized trad placements offers a balanced tech challenge. Compared to nearby November Wall routes, Moonstruck demands more precise gear running and movement focus.

Gear Requirements

Moonstruck features a few low bolts protecting the crux moves, combined with trad placements ranging from micro cams to #2 gold Camalots covering the upper sections. Bring a mixed rack suited for technical cracks and bolt clipping.

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Tags

mixed protection
cruxy move
low bolt
technical cracks
short pitch