"Monster Crack on Kindergarten Rock offered a compelling 5.8 trad line known for its growing crack width and challenging protection needs. While currently closed to climbing due to critical wildlife conservation efforts, its legacy remains a testament to the delicate dance between adventure and respect for nature in Colorado’s Garden of the Gods."
Located on the western face of Kindergarten Rock within Colorado Springs' iconic Garden of the Gods, Monster Crack was once a favorite among trad climbers seeking a blend of technical crack climbing and sweeping natural beauty. This single-pitch route, rated a moderate 5.8, unfolds along a striking crack that widens as you ascend, demanding both finesse with smaller cams at the base and the security of larger protection near the top. The climb begins with a somewhat loose rock section, requiring attentive placements of micro cams and aliens to stay safe and confident early on. As you push higher, the crack broadens noticeably, calling for sizable cams—think #5 Camalot territory—especially in the final 15 feet where protection is crucial before reaching a comfortable ledge.
The ledge at the summit offers a reassuring spot to set anchors, equipped with bolted rappel points for a safe descent. The approach to Monster Crack weaves through Garden of the Gods’ charismatic landscape, tracing a trail along the backside of Kindergarten Rock. Starting at the designated parking area, you cross the road and cut into the wash, following a path that skirts roughly 500 feet along the rock’s rear flank. This approach not only readies your muscles but immerses you in the quiet pulse of the desert environment.
However, it’s essential to note that since 2018, Monster Crack and several adjacent routes on the West Face have been formally closed to all climbing and hiking activity. This closure responds directly to conservation efforts aimed at minimizing human impact on native wildlife populations, including brown bats and several raptor species like great horned owls, red-tailed hawks, and Cooper’s hawks. These animals depend on the quiet solitude the rock formations provide, and caretakers at Garden of the Gods have enacted restrictions to protect these sensitive residents. If you're preparing your next trip here, it's vital to check current regulations and respect closures to preserve this special environment for future generations.
For climbers with access to other nearby routes, Monster Crack remains an instructive example of traditional crack climbing in the area: a route that demands thoughtful gear choices, steady footwork, and mindful engagement with the rock’s texture and contours. The gradual widening of the crack tests both finger locks and hand jams, with a finale that rewards placing big cams before topping out on solid footing. On clear days from the approach, the Garden of the Gods displays dramatic sandstone spires against a wide-open sky, a reminder of why this public park draws climbers and adventurers from all walks of life.
Though direct experience on Monster Crack is currently off-limits, understanding the route’s character offers valuable insight for anyone drawn to trad climbing’s mix of mental challenge and physical engagement. It underscores the importance of balancing human adventure with stewardship of the habitats we cherish. Always consult local land managers for the latest updates, gear recommendations, and access information before setting out in this legendary climbing destination.
Loose rock at the route’s beginning demands careful gear placement to avoid holds breaking. Additionally, strict seasonal and permanent closures require adherence for the protection of sensitive wildlife habitats, including bats and raptors.
Check current access status before visiting; climbing on Monster Crack is closed to protect local wildlife.
Approach via Kindergarten Rock parking area; cross the road and follow the wash trail at the rock’s rear.
Bring a range of cams, focusing on a strong selection of large sizes for the upper crack section.
Anchor off at the ledge using fixed bolted rappel points, ensuring safe descent procedures.
A full rack is advised with small to medium cams for initial placements, progressing to large cams—such as a #5 Camalot—needed to protect the wide, crux section near the top. Micro cams and aliens are essential for the somewhat loose rock at the start, with bolts securing the rappel anchors on the ledge.
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