HomeClimbingMonosmear

Monosmear at Quarry Wall, Red Rock Canyon Open Space

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
finger pockets
slab climbing
short route
shared anchor
Colorado desert
sport climb
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Monosmear
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Monosmear is a short but engaging sport climb on the smooth slabs of Quarry Wall in Red Rock Canyon Open Space. At 50 feet and rated 5.8, it offers steady finger pocket holds and subtle smears—perfect for refining slab technique in a peaceful, open desert setting."

Monosmear at Quarry Wall, Red Rock Canyon Open Space

Monosmear presents a succinct yet rewarding sport climb tucked within the rugged Quarry Wall of Red Rock Canyon Open Space, just outside Colorado Springs. This 50-foot route stands out with its smooth slab face edged in cool finger pockets that challenge your balance and precision. Starting just right of the more established Old'n route, Monosmear invites climbers to smear their way up the right flank of this polished slab, relying on subtle friction and careful foot placement. The rock’s texture demands focus—you can feel the granite’s quiet resistance under your fingers as the climb unfolds. About halfway up, the route gently curves left, guiding you toward the shared anchors of Old'n, where the final bolts secure your effort.

Although Monosmear carries a moderate 5.8 rating, its character leans on finesse over brute strength. The climb rewards patience and technique, making it an ideal test for those sharpening slab skills or easing into sport climbing. The route’s four bolts provide solid protection, spaced to encourage confident movement while keeping the lead engaging. This is a climb where smooth footwork and trust in the friction-quality granite define success.

Approaching Quarry Wall, you’ll find well-maintained trails through dry scrub and open pinyon pines, typical of this Colorado high desert environment. The setting offers more than just climbing—it’s a gateway to vast blue skies and the steady hum of nature in motion. Early morning light catches the wall just so, framing the climb in soft, golden hues before the midday sun stretches its heat across the canyon.

For those planning a visit, sturdy climbing shoes with excellent sole grip will make a decisive difference, especially when navigating the slab sections. A moderate rack focused on quickdraws suffices here; five should keep you relaxed and ready. Hydration remains key as the semi-arid climate can swiftly dry you out, even on cooler days. Consider timing your ascent to avoid the afternoon warmth and occasional winds that sweep through the canyon.

Monosmear’s approachable length and moderate difficulty make it a solid choice for climbers looking to build confidence on slab climbs in a serene yet dynamic outdoor setting. It’s an invitation to move deliberately, feel connected with the rock surface, and appreciate a quieter corner of one of Colorado’s prized climbing areas.

Climber Safety

While the route is well-bolted, the smooth slab demands careful foot placement—any slip can lead to a longer fall. The shared two-bolt anchor with Old'n is reliable, but take care during the final moves where the rock surface thins and friction is key.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early morning to enjoy cooler temperatures and softer light on the slab.

Choose climbing shoes with sticky rubber to maximize friction on smooth granite.

Hydrate thoroughly before and during the climb, as the dry climate can be deceptive.

Watch out for wind gusts in the afternoon that can unsettle your balance on exposed sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Monosmear's 5.8 rating feels true to the style; the difficulty lies more in balance and subtle footwork than raw power. The crux involves trusting the small finger pockets and managing confident smears. Compared with nearby routes, it offers a softer grade but requires focused technique, especially for climbers new to slab.

Gear Requirements

Bring 4 quickdraws for the bolts; the protection includes four bolts leading to a shared two-bolt anchor with Old'n. The last bolt and anchor are common to both routes.

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Tags

finger pockets
slab climbing
short route
shared anchor
Colorado desert
sport climb