"Monkey Bob on Surprising Crag’s south face offers a compact sport climb blending delicate balance on a broken ramp with a bold roof traverse option. Ideal for adventurers building confidence in Boulder Canyon’s approachable rock."
Monkey Bob offers climbers a compact yet engaging taste of Boulder Canyon’s sport climbing within the inviting confines of Surprising Crag. Situated on the south face, this route is the fifth line to the right of a prominent chimney, making it instantly recognizable as you approach the wall. The climb begins on a fractured ramp that challenges you to find your balance and pace early. Soon, you face a roof feature that dares you to choose your path: a traverse beneath the roof presents an accessible line, while pushing straight over demands a touch more finesse and strength. The final moves ease up into a low-angle lieback crack, offering a deliberate cooldown as you work through the finishing sequence. This unique combination of features—broken ramp, roof, and crack—keeps the climb dynamic and inviting, perfect for climbers stepping up into sport routes or those looking to refine their technique on varied terrain.
Protection comes from four well-spaced bolts and a two-bolt anchor, lending confidence to the sport-focused style but with a touch of traditional top-rope flavor recommended for cautious ascent. The route rarely feels crowded due to its moderate star rating, but it remains a worthy introduction to the varied rock textures of the South Face area. Given its south-facing exposure, you’ll find morning or late-afternoon sessions ideal to avoid the midday heat. The approach is straightforward from the Sport Park trail, offering a quick transition into the climb with minimal scrambling or brush.
Monkey Bob stands as an accessible slice of Boulder Canyon’s climbing variety: approachable, varied in movement, and rich with options for different skill levels. Whether you choose to cruise beneath the roof or confront it more directly, the route invites thoughtfulness in movement and spot-on footwork. It serves well as a warm-up or as a solo objective for climbers seeking a single-pitch sport climb with a bit more character than a simple vertical wall. Plan your trip with sturdy shoes, a quickdraw rack, and perhaps a helmet for comfort on the mixed terrain near the approach. Hydrate accordingly, particularly in summer months, as the exposure can quickly sap your energy. The area’s crisp mountain air and forest edges keep the environment lively, and the steady hum of Boulder Canyon’s wilderness feels close yet contained. A small but spirited challenge that rewards calm decision-making and a steady pace.
The approach is short but involves some broken rock near the base—bring a helmet and check anchor bolts before trusting them fully. The roof section demands attention to body positioning to avoid swinging falls. Watch for loose rock on the initial ramp and maintain solid footwork.
Start early or late to avoid sun exposure on the south-facing wall.
Wear grippy shoes to negotiate the broken ramp and roof moves with precision.
Approach via the Sport Park trail—trailhead coordinates are 39.97305, -105.46306.
Hydrate well and carry water; the open wall offers little shade during midday.
Four bolts protect the route with a solid two-bolt anchor. Bring quickdraws for the bolts, and a top-rope setup is practical, especially if testing harder variations on the roof section. Minimal traditional gear needed.
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