"Monastic Groove stands out in the Outer Gates with its unique water groove and large jugs offering a lively 70-foot sport climb. Perfect for intermediate climbers seeking varied holds and solid protection in the heart of Big Thompson Canyon."
Monastic Groove carves out its distinct character within the Outer Gates, offering climbers a fresh experience amidst the more familiar lines that dot the Vestry cliff. Located just below the slender spire known as the Steeple, this route invites you to navigate a compelling water groove that feels alive with slick stone and gentle challenges. Starting tucked behind a detached boulder, the climb immediately pulls you into an engaging sequence where your fingers find varied holds, breaking away from the usual handfuls of edges common in neighboring 5.7 and 5.8 routes.
As you ascend, the rock reveals a bulge crowned by the largest jugs along the route—grips so generous they seem to invite a brief respite before the final stretch. From this bulging feature, a few more bolts lead upward to an alcove that shelters the fixed anchors, a solid two-bolt setup with chains providing reliable security after about 70 feet of vertical movement.
The Outer Gates area lies within the majestic Big Thompson Canyon, framed by the Estes Park Valley’s rugged contours and alpine light. This sport climb strikes a balance between accessibility and subtle adventure; it’s approachable for intermediate climbers eager to sharpen their technique on textured holds while enjoying an exposed line with clear protection.
The approach is straightforward—access the Vestry by following the Outer Gates trail system and look for the distinctive, detached boulder that marks the route’s base. Expect some light scrambling to position yourself behind this natural gateway. The rock here is generally solid, boasting clean lines, but a cautious hand on the final moves is advised, especially around the bulge, where moisture can sometimes cling. This route’s south-facing aspect means it catches the morning sun and offers excellent climbing conditions through spring and fall, avoiding the searing heat of summer afternoons.
Prepare for the climb with sturdy shoes that handle both slab and juggy terrain well, and carry a few quickdraws to clip the eight bolts comfortably. Hydration is key if you’re hiking into this canyon on a warm day, and early starts help beat the afternoon winds that sweep down the valley. While this single-pitch is on the shorter side, its blend of varied features creates both an efficient workout and a memorable experience.
Monastic Groove stands as a quiet highlight within the Outer Gates landscape—an accessible challenge with rewarding moves and an uncomplicated descent. The climb’s rock beckons with just enough complexity to keep you focused, yet generous enough to invite a confident, steady pace. Whether you’re stepping up from easier climbs or looking for a reliable route to warm up, this line offers both pleasure and practical beta for your Colorado itinerary.
Though the protection is solid, be mindful that wet conditions can linger on the water groove and bulge, increasing the risk of slips. The anchor sits in a recessed alcove, so approach with caution during descent. Also, watch for loose rock around the detached boulder at the start.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and valley winds.
Wear shoes suited for both slab and juggy holds for better control.
Check for moisture near the bulge, especially after rain.
Hydrate well before and during the climb—access to water on the approach is limited.
The route is well-protected by eight bolts and finishes with a two-bolt anchor equipped with chains. Bring enough quickdraws for smooth clipping, and expect secure placements along the water groove and bulge features.
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