HomeClimbingMon Kiki

Mon Kiki: A Compact Sport Climb with a Surprising Start

Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc, Quebec Canada
technical start
sport climbing
short route
bolted
blackened face
Mauricie
intermediate
Length: 65 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mon Kiki
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mon Kiki is a short sport climb in Quebec’s Parc Récréoforestier de Saint-Mathieu that packs a technical punch right off the bat. Ideal for climbers seeking refined footwork within 65 feet of solid bolted terrain."

Mon Kiki: A Compact Sport Climb with a Surprising Start

Mon Kiki offers a brief but engaging sport climb tucked within the peaceful Parc Récréoforestier de Saint-Mathieu in Quebec. Although it stretches only 65 feet, this route commands attention with a challenging opening sequence that tests your technique more than the grade suggests. The climb begins on a darkened rock face marked by a blackened patina—a detail that hints at the route’s quiet resilience against time and weather. To the left, a slightly easier variation invites those seeking a little less intensity while still enjoying solid movements and rhythm. The wall holds eight well-maintained bolts and two sturdy chains that ensure a reliable top anchor, providing a safe environment to push your limits.

This route is a perfect introduction for climbers aiming to sharpen their technical skills on sport routes with short length but demanding starts. Though rated at 5.9, the initial moves feel more intricate than typical climbs of this standard, requiring precise footwork and a steady hand. The climb rewards persistence with a satisfying sense of accomplishment upon topping out amid the quiet forest surroundings.

Plan your visit during late spring to early fall when the weather is stable and the rock is dry—ideal for maintaining grip and minimizing slip risk. The approach through Parc Récréoforestier de Saint-Mathieu is straightforward, with a mellow trail winding through lush woodland that primes you for your climb without taxing your energy reserves. Remember to bring climbing shoes with good edging capability and a chalk bag to counteract any dampness lingering on the shaded face.

While the route’s brief nature means you spend less time on the wall, its technical nuances ensure no minutes are wasted. Following the climb, take a moment to absorb the quiet ambiance of Mauricie’s forested landscape before heading back to the nearby city. Whether you’re honing skills or looking for a short session on solid sport bolts, Mon Kiki delivers a focused experience blending quiet immersion in nature with just enough challenge to sharpen your climbing senses.

Climber Safety

While the wall is well protected, the blackened surface can become slippery especially when damp, so avoid climbing after rain or in wet conditions. Additionally, ensure your anchor is double-checked despite the fixed chains being solid.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to catch the wall in dry, cool shade.

Wear shoes with precise edging capabilities to handle the technical opening moves.

Bring extra chalk to keep grip steady on the patinated rock.

Check weather forecasts; wet conditions can make the blackened face noticeably slick.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Mon Kiki’s grade feels slightly stiff at the beginning, with a crux that demands focused foot placements rather than brute strength. Compared to similar routes in the region, it leans more towards technical finesse than raw power, making it an excellent step for climbers bridging from easy to moderate grades.

Gear Requirements

This route is secured by 8 bolts with 2 fixed chains at the top, making it a straightforward lead climb for sport enthusiasts. Ensure your quickdraws are in good condition to clip confidently on the vertical blackened face.

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Tags

technical start
sport climbing
short route
bolted
blackened face
Mauricie
intermediate