"Mole’s Move challenges climbers with a sharp 5.9 reachy crux tucked inside a lichen-coated corner. This short alpine sport climb rewards precision and calm amid Ontario’s wild backdrop, perfect for those seeking a quick yet fulfilling ascent."
Carving upward through a lichen-draped corner, Mole’s Move offers a concise, intense climb that balances technical sport moves with the spaciousness of alpine exposure. Located just off Mile 38 in the Ontario Ice and Mixed area, this route serves up an agile 5.9 crux that demands precision and reach. The climb begins with solid hand and foot holds that invite confident movement toward the first bolt, situated roughly 15 feet above the ground. The key move, a reachy pull to a pinch, triggers a surge of focused energy as the angle eases, opening into a more relaxed terrain. Beyond this, the path transitions into a walking scramble, bypassing a bolt on the right side and guiding climbers steadily to the top of the formation.
At only one pitch and approximately 90 feet in length, Mole’s Move feels like a sharp snapshot of what alpine sport climbing in this region is all about: a brief, dynamic challenge framed by the rugged outdoors. The corner itself wears its lichen like a patch of weathered armor, textured and alive beneath your fingers, while the surrounding air carries the crispness of the northern Canadian wilderness.
While the technical difficulty centers around that measured 5.9 maneuver, the route’s alpine environment commands respect for variable weather and the approach’s uneven terrain. With two bolts fixing the main crux and a two-bolt anchor waiting at the summit, protection is straightforward but sparse, reinforcing the need for solid clipping and steady nerves.
Planning your ascent here means embracing early starts to catch optimal light and stable conditions on the rock, especially during late spring through early fall. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging capability will pay off, as the holds can be modest, and the corner requires good smearing alongside controlled reach. The hike-in is brisk, but keep your eyes sharp for uneven ground and loose debris commonly scattered in this alpine zone.
Mole’s Move is suited for climbers who want to stretch their skills within the alpine sport climbing arena without committing to multi-pitch complexity. It’s a strong primer for mixed alpine routes across Ontario’s varied landscape, offering a taste of technical grit under open skies. Whether you’re stepping up from gym climbs or rounding out a day of scrambling, this climb delivers a satisfying blend of focused moves and refreshing solitude. Don’t forget to bring plenty of water, scout the weather beforehand, and leave no trace where the lichen clings.
Limited bolts mean precise clipping is vital; the lichen on holds can also reduce friction, so approach moves deliberately. Weather can turn quickly in alpine zones—check forecasts and be prepared to retreat if conditions worsen.
Start early to avoid afternoon shade and maximize rock warmth.
Stick to sticky-soled climbing shoes for better grip on lichen-slick holds.
Scout the approach trail carefully; terrain can be uneven with loose rock.
Bring plenty of water and dress in layers to adjust to changing alpine conditions.
Two bolts provide protection along the climb, including a two-bolt anchor at the top. Clipping precision is essential due to the limited protection points, so be prepared for careful gear management on the 5.9 crux move.
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