5.9, Sport
Calabogie
Ontario ,Canada
"Moje Zlato is a focused 5.9 sport climb on Calabogie's Mid Cliff, following a clean dihedral that challenges with stemming and face moves. Ideal for climbers looking for steady protection and technical sequencing on solid rock."
Moje Zlato presents a focused, single-pitch sport climb that draws you into the quieter corners of Calabogie's Mid Cliff area. The route traces a clean, bolted line that rides a defined dihedral, where the rock shifts beneath your fingertips from stemming edges to technical face sequences. Each move is deliberate: the dihedral invites you to press outward with your feet while the feature’s angles open up routes for varied body positions. The climb demands control and smooth footwork; the interplay between the stemming and face climbing requires you to engage both strength and finesse.
Beginning at the base, the rock surface is textured and steady, providing secure holds but asking for precise placement on small edges. As you advance, the subtle mantle move near the top adds a final test of balance and reach before clipping the fixed anchor. Protection includes four well-spaced bolts and a dependable anchor with a single ring and chain backup, offering secure attachment points for a confident lead or top-rope ascent.
The approach weaves through Calabogie's forested exterior, with a short but slightly uneven trail that demands sturdy footwear and a good sense of footing. This is an ideal climb for a late spring to early fall day, where the sun casts gentle light across the rock face, warming it without overwhelming heat. The wall's orientation offers a pleasant mix of sun and shade, making midday ascents comfortable even on warmer days.
Moje Zlato suits those seeking a straightforward yet satisfying challenge on sport hardware. Its moderate length and clear protection make it approachable for all levels, while technical moves, especially within the dihedral, create enough interest for experienced climbers eager to refine technique. Given its location on Calabogie's Main Cliff, it pairs well with other climbs in the Mid Cliff sector, allowing a half-day session with variety and quality. Proper hydration and carrying a light rack for extra confidence are recommended, as the approach terrain is uneven and the rock face exposed.
In sum, Moje Zlato offers a crisp, controlled climb that balances athletic movement with uncomplicated protection. It’s a chance to engage directly with Calabogie's character: solid rock, thoughtful line, and a natural setting that encourages quiet concentration and steady progress.
Watch your footing on the stemming sections where small edges demand precise placement. The fixed anchor is solid, but clipping requires attention due to limited space. Approach trail has loose rocks—take care especially in wet conditions.
Approach trail is short but uneven; wear sturdy hiking shoes.
Ideal climbing conditions are spring through early fall with moderate temperatures.
Bring light rack extras for confidence despite solid fixed bolts.
Climb during mid-morning or afternoon to balance sun and shade on the wall.
Route is protected by 4 bolts and finishes on a fixed anchor featuring a single ring with chain backup, allowing for secure clipping and easy top-rope conversion.
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