HomeClimbingMilk Run

Milk Run at Tantalus Wall: A Technical Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
aid
multi-pitch
crack climbing
sustained
technical
damp conditions
finger jams
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad | Aid
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Milk Run
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Milk Run unfolds as a technical, four-pitch trad and aid climb on Squamish’s Tantalus Wall, blending committed climbing through mossy ledges and steep corners with relentless crack climbing. This route demands precision gear work and powerful movement amidst damp conditions and sweeping granite faces."

Milk Run at Tantalus Wall: A Technical Trad Challenge in Squamish

Milk Run stands as a compelling route that tests both technical skill and endurance across four pitches of classic Squamish granite. Conceived by the celebrated duo Peter Croft and Tammy Knight, this climb winds through a sequence of vegetated ledges, undercling corners, and sustained cracks that demand precision and solid protection placements. The approach leads you into an intimate struggle with the rock where moss and bushes cling to lower sections, masking deceptively tricky moves early on. As you emerge from the forested veil, the wall opens up, revealing a sweeping leftward line that sets the tone for the climb’s rhythm.

The first pitch is a study in careful movement through slippery terrain that rewards persistence with access to a bolt-protected traverse or a more committing route through a grooved chimney. Both options require vigilance and comfort with modest aid moves, especially when conditions are damp, as moss and wet rock reduce friction. This section demands strategic thinking on gear placement and belay choices to maintain a flow while ensuring safety.

Pitch two shifts into a more demanding arena, threading a left-facing crack that morphs into an undercling—a hallmark of Squamish’s varied climbing styles. While the free rating edges close to 5.11d for pure climbers, the option for aid with the second and third bolts softens accessibility to 5.10c A0, making it viable for those transitioning between free and aid climbing. The pitch’s key challenge lies just before the final corner: as holds taper off, a delicate downclimb followed by a lateral move into the corner tests balance and mental composure.

From here, the route reestablishes steady ground with the third pitch’s long, left-facing corner. This section is a gem of sustained movement where excellent pro placements meet hands-on locking techniques, providing a satisfying blend of challenge and rhythm at 5.10b. The groove resists monotony with its steep, committing nature, demanding that climbers remain focused and deliberate.

The final pitch is among the most striking, as the outstanding corner continues its ascent with steep lines demanding solid finger jams and body tension. Rated 5.10d, this pitch is not just about strength but maintaining technique over length. At its terminus, climbers have several descent choices: rap with double ropes back to the base, extend upward via the Midnight Run, or divert to a moderate 5.8 pitch that ties into Tantalus Wall’s fifth pitch. This flexibility allows climbers to tailor their descent to skill and stamina.

Protection on Milk Run is best managed with a full rack predominantly consisting of doubles in the finger to hand-size range, including triples for the smaller cams between .3 and .75 Camalots. Micro cams prove vital especially on pitch two, while traditional nuts complement the placements in the sustained corners. This gear profile offers versatility and security for the often continuous and thin pro placements along the route.

Approaching Milk Run means preparing for approximately 400 feet of vertical granite climbing amid one of Squamish’s renowned climbing walls. The approach trails involve navigating short forest patches that transition to open rock ledges, requiring sturdy footwear ready for mossy or damp conditions. Climbers benefit from timing their ascent to avoid wet afternoons, as moisture on the moss and groove sections significantly raises the difficulty and risk.

Squamish itself delivers a broader climbing experience rich in technical routes set against the backdrop of coastal mountains and temperate rainforests. Tantalus Wall exemplifies this blend of rugged natural beauty and demanding climbing, rewarding those who come prepared both mentally and physically with an unforgettable alpine climbing experience.

Climber Safety

The moss and vegetation on lower pitches create slippery sections, especially when wet, making footing precarious. Protection placements can be limited and technical, so solid gear skills and cautious movement are critical. Also, be mindful of loose rock around the groove and undercling sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Aid
Pitches4
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Avoid climbing pitch one’s groove section when wet; it becomes slick and hazardous.

Bring extra micro cams for the undercling crack on pitch two.

Start early to benefit from dry morning conditions on moss-covered sections.

Consider descending via the 5.8 pitch connecting to Tantalus Wall pitch five for a less technical retreat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d A0
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d A0 rating reflects a climb with both free and aid elements, where the free moves sit at an upper 5.10 difficulty. The crux lies in pitch two’s undercling and the long corners of pitches three and four. While some may find the rating slightly stiff due to the sustained nature of the climbing, the option to aid certain sections moderates the challenge for less confident free climbers.

Gear Requirements

Plan for doubles in finger to hand-size cams, including triples in smaller sizes (.3 to .75 Camalots). Micro cams are essential for pitch two’s tricky placements. Nuts back up protection in sustained corners, but cams are preferred for continuous coverage.

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Tags

trad
aid
multi-pitch
crack climbing
sustained
technical
damp conditions
finger jams