"Milk Road offers a demanding trad and aid hybrid climb on The Chief’s Tantalus Wall, featuring sustained finger cracks and a memorable dyke traverse. With nine pitches and well-protected anchors, it challenges climbers seeking both technical finesse and endurance amid Squamish's towering granite cliffs."
Milk Road stands out on The Chief’s imposing Tantalus Wall as a test of finesse and endurance, threading nearly 1000 feet through a sequence of sharp cracks and dykes that demand steady fingers and keen route-reading. From the new first pitch, the route carves through some of the finest sections of Milk Run’s best three pitches, with fingers locked onto edges that challenge every detail of your technique. The third and fourth pitches hold the heart of the climb: sustained 5.10b and 5.10d finger cracks that push you to find secure holds while placing gear continuously. The crux pitch, graded 5.10d, stands out not for a single crux move but for its relentless finger jams and balance, offering ample placements but demanding precision and patience. Gear placements vary here; bringing multiples of finger-sized cams up to #4 are essential, as these pitches can swallow your rack if you're not prepared.
The route moves into a somewhat different character towards the end, with pitch eight introducing a striking traverse along a featured dyke. This section offers a brief breather with its distinct texture and horizontal movement, contrasting the vertical finger cracks that dominate earlier pitches. A mix of bolt protection bolsters the climb beyond the corner cruxes, and all anchors allow for smooth rappels, making retreat or descent straightforward after the adventure.
Approaching Milk Road requires a commitment to both physical and mental focus. The walk-in track is well established but requires good navigation skills, winding through forested patches and rocky outcrops leading to the base of The Chief. Expect roughly a 30 to 45-minute approach from the main Squamish town center, where the Pacific Northwest air is thick with cedar scents and the distant roar of the Stawamus River reminds you of the wild nature surrounding you.
This route’s appeal lies in its blend of powerful crack climbing and high-quality protection, making it a solid choice for climbers who appreciate long, sustained trad routes with moments of aid assistance. Given the mixed nature of protection with bolts on less demanding sections, climbers can balance the risk and rest strategically. Pack finger-sized cams in multiples to handle the crux pitches’ complexity and be ready for a day of focused climbing set against the dramatic cliffs that have drawn generations of climbers to Squamish.
Planning your ascent should factor in weather and timing — mornings bring shade on the west-facing wall, cooling the rock and providing grip-friendly conditions, while afternoons heat up, making early starts preferable, especially into summer. The descent involves well-bolted rappels from every pitch, but rope management can be complicated by the long line and route layout, so bring an extra cord for safety and convenience.
Whether you’re ticking off a project or stepping up your trad game, Milk Road offers a compelling mix of technical moves and route-finding on one of British Columbia’s most iconic granite walls. This route rewards careful preparation with a climbing experience that dances between gritty finger jams and the quiet confidence of solid pro placements amid breathtaking coastal mountain views.
Beware of the lengthy rappel descent requiring attention to rope management; all anchors are bolted, but ropes can tangle if not handled with care. Weather can shift quickly, and the granite can become slippery when wet, so avoid climbing in damp conditions.
Start early to climb in cooler morning shade on the west-facing wall.
Pack at least doubles or triples of finger cams for sustained protection.
The approach trail is well-marked but prepare for moderate forest terrain.
Manage your rope carefully on rappel; consider an extra cord for long pitches.
Bring a full trad rack from fingers up to #4 cams, with multiples in finger sizes especially for the corner pitches. While bolts protect sections outside the crux cracks, solid finger jams benefit from plentiful cam placements. All anchors are bolted for straightforward rappels.
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