"Mike's Day Off challenges trad climbers with three pitches of slab and crack climbing set against the rugged backdrop of Glenwood Canyon. Perfect for those seeking a moderate, thoughtful route with varied protection and memorable exposure."
Mike's Day Off offers a focused and rewarding trad climbing experience along the sweeping granite slabs of Glenwood Canyon, just minutes from Glenwood Springs, Colorado. This climb stretches over 450 feet across three pitches, challenging climbers with its sustained crack systems and exposed slab sections that demand both steady technique and respect for route protection. The approach ushers you through pine-scented forests beneath a rising canyon wall, where sunlight flickers through the branches and the hum of the Colorado River hints at adventure ahead. As you step onto the rock, twin cracks on the first pitch immediately set the tone: honest, engaging climbing requires careful gear placement to protect against the occasional loose block. A dead tree acts as a landmark, signaling a belay position on a comfortable ledge.
The second pitch guides you upward along a sequence of cracks, then moves right around sizable blocks where the rock’s structure becomes more delicate—here, a cautious foot and hand placement is key to avoid dislodging stones. Heading toward a lone tree and then ascending a narrow band of pegmatite, climbers encounter more slabby terrain where protection serves mostly to keep ropes clear of loose rock rather than arrest serious falls. A ledge with a bolt-piton anchor provides a secure belay and a moment to survey the surrounding canyon cliffs, before an untied shuffle left to the slab’s far side tests one’s balance and movement precision.
The final pitch holds the crux of the climb: an unprotected slab and arete demanding a commitment to staying on the feature and trusting your feet. The rock’s texture shifts here, requiring attentive edging and smearing to reach a gratifying slab finish. From the quartzite summit, hikers find an easy scramble and multiple options to descend. Rappelling with two 70m ropes from a sturdy tree down to the bolt-piton anchor, then continuing to the base, offers a secure exit, though numerous tree anchors nearby provide alternatives.
This climb suits those with some trad experience seeking a moderately challenging route with exposure and variety. The rock quality shifts and the nature of protection emphasize careful gear selection—a single rack of cams, nuts, and pins is essential for a safe lead. Glyding between careful placements and trusting the slab’s friction provide a satisfying contrast. Glenwood Canyon’s scenery adds to the experience: crisp mountain air, distant river sounds, and the towering canyon walls frame your ascent.
Timing your climb for mid-morning to avoid the full heat of the afternoon sun is ideal, especially in summer. Wear sturdy climbing shoes with precise edging ability and bring hydration for the approach under open skies. Local climbers praise Mike's Day Off for its blend of technical pitches and the serenity found in its less-traveled lines, positioning it as a perfect stepping stone for trad climbers expanding their lead repertoire in western Colorado’s climbing hotspots.
Watch for loose blocks on the second pitch and avoid pulling directly on uncertain rock. The upper slab climb has sparse protection, so committing only if comfortable with runouts is crucial. Be sure to inspect anchors before rappelling, as some tree anchors may vary in stability.
Approach the route early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed slabs.
Use caution on loose rock sections, especially around the big blocks on pitch two.
Double-check placements on pitch three; protection here is minimal and often used to prevent rope drag rather than arrest falls.
Carry two 70m ropes for a safe descent using multiple rappel options via tree anchors.
Essential rack includes a single set of cams, nuts, and pins to protect subtle crack placements and to manage rope drag around potentially loose blocks.
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