"Mega Chimney is a gritty trad climb offering essential hands-on chimney and off-width experience in Colorado’s Rampart Range. While the approach is tough and the rock loose, the route rewards steady climbers with engaging moves and practical gear challenges."
Mega Chimney offers a gritty, hands-on trad climbing experience just off Rampart Range Road near South Platte, Colorado. This single-pitch route is a playground for those ready to test their chimney and off-width skills with a hefty dose of tactile climbing. The approach demands respect—expect a strenuous, trail-less haul through uneven terrain carrying a sizable rack designed for wide cracks. While the trail is far from comfortable, reaching this rough stretch of rock rewards you with a chimney that calls for active engagement: stem, squeeze, and press against the walls as you ascend. The rock itself is loose and decomposing in places, challenging your ability to read and trust the formations beneath your hands and feet.
As you work upwards, the chimney eventually splits, presenting a choice. The right-hand moss-laden groove offers a damp but navigable path upward, while the left exit leads to an off-width crack protected by mid-sized cams. A distinctive, rotten down-facing spike marks the transition point, inviting a careful leftward move onto cleaner rock. Using a mix of #4 to #6 cams, climbers will find gear placements that feel secure though occasionally spaced, especially in the wider steep sections where a runout briefly tests your confidence. Most climbers carry extras to cover this gap, but many find the chimney itself so tight and enclosed it provides natural security.
Beyond protection details, the route serves as excellent practice for controlling body position within confined spaces, requiring patience and deliberate movement to maintain balance. The air tightens as you ascend, with the rock surface warming in patches of sun, contrasting the cool shade that lingers in the mossy groove. Sounds of distant wind brushing over the pine trees mix with the rustle of loose rock beneath boots, grounding you in this rugged setting away from crowds.
Preparation is key here. The challenging approach makes lightweight packing difficult but essential—wear sturdy boots with reliable grip and prepare for erratic footing. Hydration is critical given the exertion required not only on the rock but during the approach. Early to mid-morning ascents are favorable to avoid overheating on exposed sections. The route’s moderate 5.8 rating can feel straightforward technically, but the loose rock and tight chimney spaces add an element of unpredictability.
Mega Chimney won't appeal to everyone; its rough edges, limited summit, and demanding approach mean this climb feels earned. Yet for those who appreciate a hands-on chimney climb with a side of solitude and physical challenge, it’s an adventure worth engaging on Colorado’s storied Rampart Range.
Loose and decomposing rock is common—test holds carefully and avoid dislodging debris onto climbers below. The trail-less approach brings risk of twisted ankles on unstable ground, so move cautiously and wear sturdy boots. Mossy areas can become slippery especially after rain or early morning condensation.
Prepare for a steep, trail-less approach—pack light but bring the big cams you need.
Early morning climbs offer better temperatures with less sun heating the rock.
Footwear with sticky soles and ankle support is critical given loose and uneven terrain.
Check for moss dampness on the groove; it can be slippery when wet.
Carry a robust set of large cams—at minimum #4 through #6—for secure placements. Place #5 and #6 cams early in the climb to protect the chimney sections safely. A #4 cam covers the tricky exit crack, while an optional Big Bro (#4) or specialty cam can shore up a small runout on the steeper, wider section. Expect to back clean the larger gear from careful stances.
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