Medicine Rock stands as a commanding sentinel on the north slope overlooking the serene waters of Soda Spring Reservoir in Idaho. This imposing, roughly 90-foot tall dacitic tuff boulder breaks through the surrounding forest canopy, offering climbers a unique blend of natural beauty and gripping challenge. Its defining feature is a singular, narrow crack—as thin as a quarter to four inches wide—that slices through the rock’s face, demanding precise technique and focus from anyone seeking to ascend.

The climb here is more than just physical effort; it offers a chance to step away from the heat, as the shade filtered through the trees shelters climbers during warm weather. The setting, just over an hour’s drive east from Roseburg, Oregon, is easy to approach yet feels like an escape from the busier climbing hubs. Arriving at Medicine Rock, you follow a straightforward route from the North Umpqua Highway. Turning onto Medicine Creek Road just past Boulder Flats Campground, you cross a bridge and travel a mile to a pullout where the walk-in begins. From there, a brief 115-foot hike leads you to a series of three notable boulders. Medicine Rock is the center gem, and its position offers wide views of the reservoir below.

The star route here, the aptly named Crazy Crack (5.10b), tests finger strength and crack climbing finesse—this classic climb earns a solid 4.0-star rating for good reason. While the rock tends to be firm and reliable, the crack’s narrowness requires sustained focus, making it ideal for climbers who enjoy technical challenges rather than brute force. Expect this climb to hone your jamming skills and offer a satisfying send with its vertical pitch.

Though climbing options at Medicine Rock are limited, the quality and setting make it a memorable outing, especially for those wanting to beat summer heat in a quiet, tree-shaded spot. The boulder’s elevation just below 2,000 feet means weather varies, but spring through early fall offers the best climbing windows with generally stable conditions. This is a place where solitude meets technical climbing, appealing to intermediate and advanced climbers who appreciate crack climbing and a peaceful natural atmosphere.

Safety is straightforward but essential here: the approach is short but involves contouring a slope, so steady footing is important. The rock itself, composed of dacitic tuff, is solid but check carefully for loose sections around the crack. Descending is typically done by downclimbing carefully since the boulder isn’t tall enough to necessitate ropes for rappel, but always stay alert on steep slopes below the rock face.

Overall, Medicine Rock offers a focused climbing experience where the surrounding forest and the quiet waters of Soda Spring Reservoir form an ideal backdrop. Its thin crack route stands as a worthy goal for those looking to sharpen trad crack skills or simply enjoy an off-the-beaten-path adventure in southern Oregon’s rugged landscape. This is a climb that rewards preparation, technique, and an appreciation for solitude under the trees.