"Medal of Honor offers a compelling single-pitch trad climb featuring precise crack and edge work culminating in a challenging roof traverse. This route tests climbers with a mix of delicate gear placements and slick rock, making it a standout experience in California’s Big Face area."
Rising sharply along the rugged expanse of Big Face, the Medal of Honor route challenges climbers with a single pitch of sustained 5.10a trad climbing that demands both precision and nerve. This climb, often referred to by its more visceral nickname, Leg Breaker, pays tribute to C/Sgt Tinsley, a British Royal Marine mountain leader exchange instructor, whose bold ascent ended in a harsh fall. The route cuts a defined line up clean cracks and delicate edges that lead to a prominent roof feature. Tackling the roof requires careful footwork and patience as you traverse its left side on secure holds. The climb moves steadily upward, with small gear placements and occasional bolts offering reassurance on otherwise smooth terrain.
As you progress, the stone surface grows slicker and gathers patches of moss, especially near the top. This adds a layer of challenge, calling for controlled movement and attentive protection placement. The gear is predominantly small rack pieces complemented by bolts that provide solid protection, a boon on the more polished sections. The anchors at the summit are reliable, with either bolted stations or sturdy trees reachable with a 70-meter rope, making the descent safe and straightforward.
The approach to Medal of Honor follows accessible trails off Sonora Pass Highway (108), winding through a landscape defined by scattered forests and open rock slabs. This proximity to the road makes the route an appealing option for climbers seeking quality trad climbing without a lengthy approach. Given its technical demand and historical reputation, this climb suits intermediate to advanced trad climbers who are comfortable reading subtle cracks and managing gear placements on less-than-perfect rock.
To prepare, bring a rack focused on small cams and nuts, ensure your shoes have sticky rubber for edge gripping, and plan your timing when the rock is dry to avoid moss-related slips. The sun strikes the wall predominantly from the south, so early morning conditions before the heat sets in offer optimal friction and a stable climbing experience. Local climbers advise checking weather forecasts carefully, as Sonora Pass can see rapid changes that affect both approach and climb safety.
Medal of Honor stands as a quiet monument to both the grit required for trad climbing and the unpredictable dance with gravity that all climbers confront. It rewards those willing to push their limits with a direct, engaging route where nature’s imperfections demand attention and respect. Whether you’re seeking to sharpen your crack climbing skills or chase a memorable ascent within California’s Big Face area, this route combines physical challenge with a story etched into the rock itself.
The route’s smoother, moss-covered sections near the top require caution—wet or damp conditions can drastically reduce friction. Additionally, anchors are secure but approach with attention to your gear placements on tricky roof sections to avoid falls.
Start early to climb on cooler rock and avoid moss slickness near the summit.
Check weather carefully – conditions can change rapidly near Sonora Pass.
Wear footwear with excellent edging capability for the delicate cracks and edges.
Use a 70m rope to comfortably lower from either bolted anchors or a sturdy tree.
Bring a rack focused on small cams and nuts; bolts supplement protection on the roof and upper pitches. Use a 70m rope to reach anchors easily.
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