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McOkja Nuggets With Fries

Twentynine Palms, California United States
narrow crack
overhang finish
desert
short route
trad gear
granite
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
McOkja Nuggets With Fries
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact trad line tucked just off the beaten path in Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area, McOkja Nuggets With Fries challenges climbers with a dynamic narrow crack and an overhanging finish. Perfect for those looking to hone crack technique in a classic desert setting."

McOkja Nuggets With Fries

McOkja Nuggets With Fries offers a compact yet rewarding trad experience in the heart of Joshua Tree National Park's Lost Horse Area. This short 40-foot route begins on the same approach as the classic Happy Okja Buddy Meal, but veers diagonally up and right, guiding climbers into a narrower crack that culminates in a challenging overhanging finish. The rock here feels solid beneath your hands, while the crack demands mindful gear placements and steady footwork. As you ascend, the desert air carries a faint warmth, and the sun’s trajectory casts shifting shadows that highlight the route’s texture and features.

Though relatively brief, this climb delivers a technical push—especially near the top where the crack narrows and the overhang forces engaged upper body moves. Protection calls for cams up to 2.5 inches, with a #4 cam noticeably undersized at the widest part of the crack, though big pro isn’t mandatory thanks to the crack’s natural bottlenecks and constrictions. The anchor is solid, allowing for a secure belay or a tidy rappel setup.

Joshua Tree’s rugged expanse stretches out from the base, with scrubby desert vegetation and wide-open skies framing your attempt. The approach is straightforward on well-traveled trails, making access convenient while still holding the quiet desert’s remote vibe. Best tackled in cooler months to avoid the intense heat, this route rewards climbers who come prepared with balanced gear, steady technique, and a readiness for the desert’s variable conditions.

Climbers tackling McOkja Nuggets With Fries should bring lightweight trad racks emphasizing mid-size cams, solid climbing shoes for edging on granite, and layered clothing to adjust for desert temperature swings. Water is essential, with no reliable sources nearby, and early starts will help you beat both the heat and potential crowds. Though brief, this climb invites focus and precision, an ideal challenge for those looking to sharpen crack skills while soaking up the stark beauty of Joshua Tree’s iconic terrain.

Climber Safety

Protection placements can be tight near the overhang—avoid over-camming and double-check all pro. The desert climate means dehydration is a risk; bring ample water and time climbs to avoid midday heat.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid desert heat and crowds.

Bring mid-sized cams up to 2.5 inches for best protection.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for delicate edging on granite.

Carry at least 2 liters of water as no sources are available nearby.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels fairly honest with a crux approaching the overhanging finish where sustained technique is required. While the pitch is short, the moves demand precise footwork and crack jams, making it a solid test for those comfortable on mid-grade trad terrain.

Gear Requirements

Gear placements demand cams up to 2.5 inches; a #4 cam is too small for the middle wide spot but big pro isn’t necessary thanks to the crack's shape. Expect solid gear anchor at the top.

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Tags

narrow crack
overhang finish
desert
short route
trad gear
granite