"MCM offers a clean, accessible trad climb tucked into Ronin’s Corner at the Smoke Bluffs. Perfect for beginners stepping into leading, this 75-foot single pitch invites you to build trad skills on solid granite with straightforward protection."
MCM presents a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to trad climbing in the iconic Smoke Bluffs area of Squamish, British Columbia. The route follows a clean corner system to the right of the more popular Sky Dancing, offering about 75 feet of classic, moderate climbing. The rock here is solid granite, with the corner providing consistent holds and opportunities for secure protection placement. The climb's grade, 5.6, opens the door for those beginning to lead on trad gear, where confidence in placing cams and nuts takes center stage.
This single-pitch line shines as a training ground for new leaders to experience the rhythm of a traditional route under the watchful presence of towering granite walls. The approach to Ronin’s Corner is relatively gentle—just a short walk from the popular base areas of the Smoke Bluffs—allowing ample time to consider beta and warm up. The air carries a fresh forest scent and the subtle sounds of birds overhead, while sunlight dapples the granite face in morning and afternoon, enhancing handholds and improving visibility.
Protection calls for a standard rack, including a range of cams and nuts. The corner’s consistent crack width means placements are secure and straightforward, perfect for sharpening gear skills without the stress of runouts or tricky placements. Although the route is short, the experience is dense with lessons—from stance management to crack climbing techniques.
Beyond the climb, the broader Smoke Bluffs area is known for its accessibility and variety. Climbers can expect a mix of easy-to-moderate routes that encourage progression and offer stunning views of the surrounding forested hills. In terms of planning, the best time to tackle MCM is during late spring through early fall, when dry weather ensures optimal friction and safer gear placements. Lightweight climbing shoes with a reliable grip, a well-organized rack, and layered clothing are recommended given the variable coastal climate.
In sum, MCM is a great starting point for trad climbers who want an approachable, confidence-building pitch in a stunning environment. Its balance of manageable challenges and secure protection makes it a must-visit for anyone looking to get their first taste of real granite trad climbing within the Smokes’ iconic setting.
Though the rock is solid and the protection straightforward, climbers should confirm gear placements carefully and be mindful of loose debris near the base. The approach trail is easy but be alert for slippery sections after rain.
Approach via the main Smoke Bluffs trail; it’s a 10-minute walk from the parking lot.
Bring shoes with good edging capability; granite edges can be sharp but rewarding for footwork.
Avoid climbing after heavy rain to ensure secure friction and dry gear placements.
Shoot for morning or late afternoon climbs to enjoy dappled sunlight and cooler temperatures.
A standard trad rack is sufficient here; include a range of small to medium cams and nuts to cover placements along the corner crack.
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