Standing tall against the alpine skyline, McGillicuddy offers climbers an intense journey up one of Mount Gilbert’s most formidable north face features. This route demands respect—it climbs a massive pillar with loose rock scattered along much of its lower stretches, testing your focus and commitment from the very first pitch. From the base, you enter a rugged world where scree and mossy chimneys challenge your footing, but above, the granite sharpens into clean cracks and technical roofs that keep your adrenaline surging.

The approach sets the tone with a 200-foot start through right-facing corners and left ramps, negotiating unstable ledges that push your route-finding skills. Safety feels tentative, as rock feels less trustworthy—each move weighs heavier knowing loose stones might betray you. Progressing into cleaner terrain, handcracks at pitch two provide a disciplined groove, guiding you into a deep gully where you catch your breath before the true testing climbs ahead.

Pitch three brings a stemmed chimney lined with moss, needing balance and patience amid decomposing metamorphic blocks. The shift occurs on pitch five, where the rock quality transforms to firm granite, allowing confident jams along a striking arete. Here, the exposure rises—as does the thrill—with the route peeling off into a steep, sustained 5.10a crux at pitch six. Two overhanging roofs loom daringly, each guarded by technical moves that demand precision and calm.

After the crux, the route eases back into moderate cracks with straightforward moves, carrying you to the summit ridge where careful footwork is crucial to pass the precarious Jenga Gendarme. The final scramble rewards with a spacious perch atop "Pride Rock," where alpine vistas sweep endlessly, framed by distant peaks.

Descending requires just as much care—an exposed southeast slope walk leads toward the East Couloir, which needs rappelling or a cautious downclimb often reliant on an ice axe. Alternatively, trekkers can carve a longer path via Treasure Col for a less technical but more time-consuming exit. This climb’s blend of loose rock challenges and granite technicality makes McGillicuddy ideal for experienced climbers who bring solid alpine skills and a willingness to adapt to shifting terrain. Preparation should include a well-rounded rack, meticulous route assessment, and enough endurance to match the climb’s sustained nature.

McGillicuddy’s varied pitches, shifting rock character, and exposed positions craft an adventure that rewards perseverance and sharp climbing instincts. It’s an alpine commitment with honest grit, demanding your focus, respect, and steady nerves on every move.