HomeClimbingMcCoubrey Route

McCoubrey Route on Hall Peak: A Classic Alpine Trad Adventure in the Purcell Mountains

Cranbrook, Canada
alpine
trad climbing
quartzite slabs
snowfields
remote
easy 5th
two-pitch
historic first ascent
Purcell Mountains
Length: 2000 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
McCoubrey Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Step into the footsteps of early mountaineers on the McCoubrey Route, a two-pitch alpine trad climb on Hall Peak offering expansive quartzite slabs and persistent snowfields. This moderate yet immersive climb challenges climbers with its remote setting and historical significance within British Columbia's rugged Purcells."

McCoubrey Route on Hall Peak: A Classic Alpine Trad Adventure in the Purcell Mountains

The McCoubrey Route on Hall Peak offers climbers an authentic taste of early alpine exploration wrapped in straightforward, enduring terrain. Situated in the remote northern reaches of British Columbia's Purcell Mountains within the greater Columbia Mountain range, this climb connects history with raw mountain beauty. Approaching from a rugged encampment tucked into the west face cirque, adventurers find themselves tracing the footsteps of the 1933 McCoubrey Expedition, who, after previous setbacks, secured the first ascent of Hall Peak — then known as the Leaning Tower. The route climbs steadily from the cirque through a blend of broad quartzite slabs and persistent snowfields, moving toward the Block-Hall Col. The terrain demands a blend of alpine caution and relaxed confidence, with slabs that encourage creeping upward with steady feet and firm hands, and snow patches that offer crisp relief for those moving efficiently with ice axes and sturdy boots.

The climb stretches roughly 2,000 feet over two pitches, a manageable length that delivers a sustained alpine atmosphere without an overwhelming commitment. The rock leans toward clean quartzite slabs, a surface that can feel simultaneously solid and slippery, especially in damp or icy conditions — a reminder that precision in footwork and timing are key. The north-facing rib climbed from across the glacier contrasts with the neighboring North Ridge, giving the route distinct character and a quieter approach, isolated from the busier corridors of alpine traffic. Along the ascent, the fresh mountain air carries the faint but persistent sound of shifting glaciers and distant gulls, while the stark granite reflects sharp daylight, creating an environment alive with texture and life.

While the protection is minimal—no fixed gear is listed—the route’s rating of Easy 5th emphasizes careful route-finding and modest climbing skills rather than technical difficulty. That said, climbers should arrive prepared for alpine unpredictability, paying close attention to the weather and timing for the climb. The remoteness means any faults in judgment could result in prolonged exposure to changing conditions. The descent typically involves retracing the ascent route or navigating nearby cols, a straightforward but precise endeavor requiring mindfulness to avoid loose rock or steep snow.

Planning the McCoubrey Route means embracing the wildness of the Purcells while respecting its moderate challenges. Reliable boots with strong edging capability, a solid rack suited for alpine trad protection, and experience with snow travel are all essential. Hydration and nutrition strategies should account for the climb’s length and altitude as well as the limited escape routes once on the mountain. Early summer to early fall presents the best window for climbing, balancing stable weather with diminishing snowpack. The isolation of the route offers an unfiltered encounter with British Columbia’s interior ranges, awarding those who venture here a deep connection to mountain history and raw alpine adventure.

Climber Safety

Although the route is not technically demanding, the remote location and mixed terrain increase exposure to alpine hazards such as sudden weather shifts and slippery slabs. Climbers must be vigilant about conditions on quartzite slabs, especially early or late in the day when moisture or ice can make footing uncertain.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches2
Length2000 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of firmer snow and avoid afternoon rockfall hazards.

Use boots with strong edging ability for quartzite slabs and carry microspikes for glacier approaches.

Be prepared for limited communication and variable weather in this remote mountain area.

Familiarize yourself with the route approach via the west face cirque to avoid navigation errors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
Easy 5th
Quality
Consensus:The Easy 5th rating here aligns with moderate technical demands but requires solid alpine skills—especially in route-finding and snow management. The grading feels appropriate given the long pitch lengths and the mix of slab and snow travel; it is less about sustained difficulty and more about steady alpine commitment. Climbers familiar with nearby Purcell alpine climbs will find the grading consistent with other accessible trad routes in the region.

Gear Requirements

No fixed protection is available on this route, so climbers should bring a complete set of trad gear suitable for alpine slab climbing and prepare for efficient snow travel. Rock quality is generally solid quartzite, though careful placements are necessary, especially on steeper slabs and where rock meets snow.

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Tags

alpine
trad climbing
quartzite slabs
snowfields
remote
easy 5th
two-pitch
historic first ascent
Purcell Mountains