HomeClimbingMaudit serpent

Maudit serpent: Quebec’s Arched Rock Challenge

Mont-Tremblant, Canada
finger pockets
sport climb
single pitch
slab climbing
fractured rock
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Maudit serpent
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Maudit serpent weaves power and precision through Quebec’s Montagne d’Argent, combining an exposed hollow flake start with a final technical slab peppered with finger pockets. This easily approachable 85-foot sport climb offers a rewarding challenge for climbers craving finger strength and strategic route reading."

Maudit serpent: Quebec’s Arched Rock Challenge

Maudit serpent invites climbers to engage with a compelling sport route anchored in Quebec’s striking Laurentian landscape. This single-pitch climb, stretching 85 feet, begins with an emphatic move on a hollow-sounding large flake that demands steady tension and careful footwork. Following the initial move, the route leads you gradually right along a line of bolts that navigate fractured rock sections, requiring both precision and flow to maintain momentum. Climbers should note that the second bolt was placed noticeably further right than would feel natural, meaning the direct line demands subtle route-finding on broken ledges.

As you ascend, the rock texture shifts dramatically when you reach a blank slab adorned with four drilled finger pockets. Here, the challenge sharpens, demanding finger strength and delicate positioning to thread through the pockets and finish with control. The protection system consists of seven bolts, culminating in a glue-in anchor designed for a reliable rappel descent.

Located in the 13 - Arche de Noway sector of the Montagne d'Argent area, Maudit serpent offers more than just vertical movement—it immerses you within the rugged folds of the Laurentians, where the air carries crisp northern notes and the granite smiles beneath your fingers with gritty assurance. The approach to the climb is straightforward, making it accessible for both weekend travelers and more dedicated climbers seeking a moderate test with technical interest.

While the route’s 5.9 rating positions it in the approachable yet satisfying bracket, climbers will find that the non-linear bolt placement adds an element of tactical movement, requiring a blend of finger strength and balance to avoid strain. This aspect elevates Maudit serpent beyond a typical sport climb, blending natural features with bold, punchy sequences.

Preparation is key: sturdy climbing shoes that balance edging grip and smearing will serve you well on the varying rock textures, while chalk should not be underestimated for the finger pocket crux. Given the exposed slab at the top, timing your climb for cooler parts of the day will help reduce sweating and optimize friction.

Beyond the climb itself, Montagne d'Argent offers peaceful surroundings where the forested trail hums softly beneath your boots and the distant peaks sketch a protective skyline. Whether you’re checking off a Quebec tick or honing your sport lead skills, Maudit serpent challenges without overwhelming, encouraging measured focus and respect for the mountain’s cadence.

In short, this route is an inviting adventure that balances technical demands with straightforward access, perfect for climbers ready to probe finger endurance and line-reading in a beautiful, lesser-trafficked wilderness spot. Arrive prepared, move smart, and let Maudit serpent unfold its diverse holds and features beneath your fingertips.

Climber Safety

The upper slab section demands attentive foot placement and smooth weight shifts, as the drilled finger pockets provide limited holds and the rock can be slick if moisture lingers. Climbers should also use caution during rappel, confirming your anchor setup before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is well-marked but rocky—sturdy footwear recommended.

The second bolt sits farther right than expected; stay aware of your line to conserve energy.

Climb cooldowns in the shade during late afternoon to optimize friction on the slab.

Ensure your rappel gear is compatible with the glue-in anchor for safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Maudit serpent skirts the edge between accessible and challenging, with a crux centered on finger pocket strength and a slightly unconventional bolt line. The grade feels solid for this style, requiring precise footwork and a steady mindset. Compared to nearby Laurentian sport routes, it offers a slightly tougher approach to movement due to the slab and bolt position, making it an excellent step-up for intermediate climbers.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by seven bolts leading to a solid glue-in anchor, allowing for a straightforward rappel descent. Bring standard sport climbing gear with attention to chalk for sustained finger pocket climbing near the top.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Maudit serpent and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

finger pockets
sport climb
single pitch
slab climbing
fractured rock