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Maple Cream: A Technical Trad Test on Squamish's Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, Canada
thin cracks
single pitch
technical slab
granite
moderate protection
Smoke Bluffs
trad climbing
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Maple Cream
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Maple Cream presents a precise trad challenge on a moss-softened slab in Squamish's Smoke Bluffs. Combining thin double cracks and subtle slab moves, its technical demands attract climbers ready to finesse protection and movement on 75 feet of pristine granite."

Maple Cream: A Technical Trad Test on Squamish's Smoke Bluffs

Maple Cream unfolds across a compact 75-foot face in the renowned Smoke Bluffs area near Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch climb offers a technical challenge that demands precise footwork and confident crack climbing skills. The approach traces a well-worn path through the forest, the scent of damp cedar and pine thick in the air, before the rock face rises sharply against the sky. Once at the base, the climb’s character reveals itself in the thin double cracks that invite steady fingers and delicate body positioning. Early moves require negotiating a mossy slab, now largely bypassed in favor of a cleaner start just above on the adjacent GMB route. From there, the route weaves right along a sloping ledge, transitioning to a mantle onto a diagonal crack that tests both balance and reach.

The slab above offers a nuanced scramble rightward past two carefully placed bolts, granting brief relief before bigger face holds appear near the upper section. Here, a final push left of the top Lumberland crack pitches the final crux and rewards with a sense of committed accomplishment. Protection is a mix of traditional gear up to 1 inch and two bolts—requiring the climber to manage placements wisely, especially on the thinner cracks that don’t readily accommodate larger cams. Those seeking to top out gain a bolted anchor shared with the adjacent Lumberland climb.

The setting presents a quiet contrast to the busier corridors of Squamish, giving climbers space to focus amidst the whispering forest and the occasional call of distant ravens. Access is straightforward from the main trail, with a short scramble to the base, making Maple Cream an approachable yet demanding project for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills on technical granite.

Ascents are best timed for late spring through early fall, when dry rock increases friction and moss remains minimal. Midday sun hits the face fully, so early morning or late afternoon light provides cooler conditions. Descending is straightforward, with rappels available via the GMB anchors or a safe walk-off down a loose scree slope that demands good footing. Preparation should include meticulous gear selection focused on smaller cams and a steady head for mid-grade trad maneuvers. For the adventurous, Maple Cream offers a quiet, focused climb where precision and patience become the keys to success.

Climber Safety

The moss on the original start can be treacherous, so avoid it when wet to reduce slip hazard. The descent via loose scree requires good attention to footing—rappelling is recommended if gear and conditions allow. Protection placements can be tricky in the thinner cracks, so double-check cam sizing and placement security.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start on the GMB route and move right at the sloping ledge to avoid mossy sections.

Best climbed in drier months; moss can make early moves slippery in wet conditions.

Use smaller cams for protection in thin cracks to ensure secure placements.

Descend via rappel on GMB anchors or walk off carefully on the loose scree trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Maple Cream leans towards a sustained technical challenge with precise finger cracks and balance-dependent slab moves. The grade feels true to local standards with a crux near the mantle and the slab traverse. Climbers accustomed to Smoke Bluffs’ granite will find this route a sharpening exercise that isn’t overly stiff but rewards careful approach and protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack including cams up to 1 inch as protection relies on precise placements in thinner cracks. Two bolts are placed for easier clipping near the top, and anchors are bolted shared with Lumberland.

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Tags

thin cracks
single pitch
technical slab
granite
moderate protection
Smoke Bluffs
trad climbing