"Many Happy Returns is a single-pitch, 80-foot trad climb at San Ysidro that skillfully blends sparse bolts with essential traditional protection. Its slabby fingerlocks and lieback sequences offer a precise, engaging 5.9 challenge, set against the sunlit sandstone formations just outside Santa Barbara."
Many Happy Returns offers climbers a focused yet approachable 80-foot trad route carved into the sunbathed slabs of San Ysidro, just outside Santa Barbara. The route starts subtly left of Orangahang with a single bolt placed mid-slab that guides your ascent, beckoning you to commit before veering right toward a distinctive lieback. This section demands quiet strength and careful footwork as the slab’s texture shifts beneath your fingers, requiring precise body positioning to unlock the fingerlocks that lead upward. The rock here feels alive with subtle imperfections that test your touch, while an isolated detached block adds an unexpected character to the climb’s rhythm. Upon conquering this sequence, the way opens onto a generous ledge where you can recover and recalibrate before finishing just right of a 3rd class gully.
The protection is a hybrid mix reflecting the San Ysidro ethos—bolts punctuate the line but are sparse low on the route, making thoughtful traditional placements essential, especially on the lower pitches where rock quality and runout can cause hesitation. At the top, robust bolted anchors provide peace of mind for the rappel. The anchor system received an upgrade in 2006, replacing old rawl bolts with stainless-steel rappel rings and modern expansion bolts to ensure safety and durability.
Approach to Many Happy Returns is straightforward from the central Santa Barbara corridor, but the route’s exposure to the afternoon sun means starting earlier in the day offers cooler conditions and firmer rock for better friction. The climb’s sun-soaked southern aspect invites steady weather through spring and fall, but wanton heat in summer can sap energy quickly, so hydration is a vital focus. Footwear with sticky rubber will reward you on the slab’s face, and a well-balanced rack of cams and nuts will cover the mixed protection sections with confidence.
While Many Happy Returns flexes a 5.9- rating, the slabby character and sustained fingerlocks elevate the challenge beyond a simple grade. Unlike steeper sport climbs nearby, this route demands mental subscription to subtle footwork and efficient resting spots. Its approachable length and height make it an ideal entry point for climbers keen to stretch their trad skills on the Central Coast’s iconic sandstone formations, setting a solid foundation for more demanding climbs in this diverse climbing enclave.
Descent is straightforward with a top-down rappel from the fixed anchors, avoiding loose terrain and ensuring a secure exit after the climb. The nearby gully offers an alternative descent path but comes with 3rd class scrambling that should be approached with caution, especially when the rock is damp or loose.
San Ysidro itself sits in a pocket of climbing history marked by its mix of sport and trad lines woven into sun-drenched sandstone. Its remoteness from urban bustle, combined with sweeping views of the Santa Barbara hills, makes it both a physical and mental refuge for climbers seeking a connection with the rock and an intimate challenge. Many Happy Returns embodies this blend perfectly—offering an engaging day out with enough technical intrigue to feel rewarding, balanced by clear protection and approachable logistics that make it an asset for local climbers or travelers passing through California’s Central Coast.
Watch for potential rockfall on the detached block section; protect carefully and avoid hanging directly below climbers. The route’s runout areas call for cautious gear placements, and the rappel anchor, while updated, demands a pre-rappel safety check. The approach can be hot midday, increasing dehydration risk.
Start early to avoid the afternoon heat and benefit from cooler rock conditions.
Bring a full rack of cams and nuts to protect the runout lower slab sections.
Sticky-soled climbing shoes improve friction on the slab moves and fingerlocks.
The rappel anchors were upgraded in 2006 and are reliable, but always double-check before descent.
Mixed protection route requiring a combination of bolts and traditional gear placements. The lower section demands careful gear reading due to runout zones, while the top anchors feature solid bolted rappel rings installed in 2006.
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