"Man of Leisure provides a compelling mix of friction moves, cracks, and delicate traversing on solid stone above Shannon Falls. This hybrid trad-sport climb tests technique and offers striking views, perfect for climbers ready to engage with diverse challenges."
Man of Leisure offers climbers a richly varied experience on Gobsmacking Wall, occupying a striking section above Shannon Falls in Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch route stretches 130 feet along solid, textured stone that demands both precise footwork and bold hand placements. Here, the rock feels alive beneath your fingertips—grainy friction patches ask for careful balance while cracks invite you to jam and lock in. A striking intrusion dyke cuts across the line, challenging climbers with delicate traversing moves that contrast the otherwise vertical climb. Although it avoids overhangs, the route’s diversity keeps bodies and minds engaged from start to finish.
Protection is mostly bolted, making the lead feel secure, yet this climb calls for a small rack of finger and hand-sized nuts and cams to cover subtle sections that bolts don’t guard. This blend of sport and trad brings a practical edge to the adventure: you’re faced with thoughtful route finding alongside confident clipping. The 5.10c rating represents a solid test of technique and endurance, with friction and crack skills equally essential to succeed. It’s the kind of climb that rewards preparation, patience, and an eye for the rock’s features.
Approaching Gobsmacking Wall means stepping into an area rich with climbing history and vibrant alpine scenery. The walk-in travels through mixed forest trails that gradually open to sweeping views of Shannon Falls cascading below. The access trail is well-maintained but calls for awareness—the final stretch skirts rocky terrain and requires keen footing. The latitude and longitude place you amid a climbing hub that draws enthusiasts year-round, thanks to its coastal climate and diverse routes.
Descent requires rappelling—two ropes are recommended due to the climb’s length exceeding 100 feet. Alternatively, seasoned climbers can navigate a walk-off path east then south; this route demands careful attention to avoid brush and unstable footing, especially in wet conditions common in the region.
Timing your climb during late spring through early fall ensures dry rock and pleasant temperatures. Morning ascents offer cool shade as the sun rises, while afternoon climbs benefit from warming light but stay alert for potential wind shifts coming off the nearby mountains. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for negotiating friction slabs, and bringing finger-sized protection will keep your lead moves confidence-inspiring.
Man of Leisure fits into Squamish’s spectrum of climbs by delivering an engaging, moderately challenging route with enough variety to sharpen your trad and sport skill set. Its approachable length and mixed style make it an ideal test piece for climbers stepping up from purely sport lines or looking to expand crack climbing techniques. The route’s setting—overlooking one of Canada’s iconic waterfalls amid towering evergreens—enriches every movement with a sensory connection to place that’s both grounding and exhilarating. Whether you’re chasing personal bests or simply savoring a day on world-class rock, Man of Leisure offers a compelling blend of challenge, beauty, and solid protection to enhance your Squamish climbing experience.
Be cautious on descent: rappelling requires two ropes and attentiveness, while the alternate walk-off route has slippery terrain, especially when wet. Inspect all placements on less-bolted sections closely to ensure solid protection.
Bring a rack with finger and hand-sized protection to cover less bolted sections.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for better purchase on friction slabs.
Plan for a two-rope rappel due to the climb's length exceeding 100 feet.
Start your climb in the morning for cooler temperatures and better grip.
Mostly bolted route requiring a small selection of finger and hand-sized nuts and cams. Prepare for some sections where traditional gear placements fill gaps between bolts, enhancing security on the varied terrain.
Upload your photos of Man of Leisure and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.