"Magic Bus offers a tough trad climb on a low-angle offwidth crack at Hartman Rocks, demanding both patience and bold gear placements. With a risky start and steady 5.7 climbing beyond, this route is a compelling test of offwidth skills in Colorado’s rugged landscape."
At Hartman Rocks near Gunnison, Colorado, the Magic Bus route offers a bold trad challenge for climbers eager to test their skills on an offwidth feature that demands both patience and power. This 55-foot line follows a low-angle, flaring offwidth crack that rarely feels straightforward—starting with a committing move just off the ground that sets the tone for the climb. The initial crux is all about confidence and body positioning, as you maneuver out from the belay to establish secure protection. Beyond the opening sequence, the climbing settles into more manageable 5.7 terrain, though the offwidth demands steady technique rather than speed.
Protection is a critical consideration here. Bring a generous rack loaded with cams up to 4 inches, plus at least one smaller piece around 0.75 inch to cover the flared sections. The rock holds well but places are sensitive—careful gear selection ensures safer progression on the crack’s unpredictable angles. Expect some sections to feel loose or awkward, especially near the base, so focus on controlled movements.
Approaching Magic Bus takes you into the rugged landscape of Hartman Rocks, a raw and sometimes exposed outdoor playground. The trail leading to the base demands a solid approach mindset; while the terrain is mostly straightforward, pockets of scratchy brush and uneven ground test your boots and footing. Once at the climb, the ambient quiet is punctuated only by the occasional breeze slipping through the open ridges and faint calls of distant wildlife.
Timing your climb is key. Hartman Rocks basks in southern exposure, soaking up sunlight most of the day, which can heat the rock surface during warmer months. Early morning starts or late afternoon climbs afford cooler conditions and better friction. The area shines in spring and fall when the air is crisp but not bitter, though always prepare for quick weather shifts common to high-elevation Colorado environments.
The descent is straightforward with a single rappel. Climbers should double-check anchors and rope length before committing to the drop. Alternatively, a careful downclimb is possible for those comfortable with exposed sections and loose rock near the top of the route.
Magic Bus is a route that won’t flatter but rather challenges you to work through its unique, breath-catching offwidth crack. For those looking to expand their trad repertoire beyond hand and finger cracks, it’s a compelling destination that combines technical skills with a glimpse into Hartman Rocks’ rugged character. Hydrate generously, bring solid gear, and prepare for an experience that rewards steady focus more than flash. Get ready—the terrain here rarely gives ground without a fight, but the satisfaction of topping out after carefully threading your protection is worth every effort.
Approach with caution due to potentially loose and flaring crack sections, especially near the base. Protection placements can be tricky, so bring plenty of large cams and double-check placement security. The descent rappel requires careful inspection of anchors and rope length.
Start early to avoid hot rock and maximize friction.
Pack a full rack with large cams for the offwidth section.
Scout the approach path to avoid scratchy shrubs and loose footing.
Double-check your anchors before rappelling the route.
Cams up to 4 inches are essential, with extra big pieces recommended. A small piece around 0.75 inch helps protect tricky flared sections. Consider clipping the first bolt on Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds to secure the start.
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