"Magellan's Voyage (Direct) skirts the western edges of the Redwood Coast, delivering a two-pitch sport climb blending technical slab moves with sweeping ocean views. The direct finish provides a fresh challenge beyond the original traverse, demanding precision and calm above the surf."
Magellan's Voyage (Direct) offers a compelling blend of ocean-edge exposure and technical sport climbing that challenges both focus and finesse. Located on the far left stretch of the golden wall, this route ascends above the crashing Pacific surf, presenting climbers with a striking contrast of rock, sea, and sky. The climb begins on the first pitch with "No Man's Land," a solid 5.8 section that guides you up a clean, textured face punctuated by old bolts—enough to feel secure without sacrificing the thrill of natural movement. This initial pitch is ideal for warming into the rhythm of the adventure, with enough grip and rest spots to settle your nerves while the ocean breeze pushes through.
Pitch two launches into a steeper slab adorned with excellent pockets and edges, demanding precise footwork and steady balance. Rated 5.10a/b, this section tests your ability to read the subtle shifts in rock texture while maintaining momentum toward the anchors overhead. The recent rebolting with titanium bolts has improved the protection around the crux moves, allowing climbers to commit more confidently. Nearing the top, the route diverges from the original traverse, instead opting for a direct finish that includes a couple of hard 5.10b moves—tight technical sequences that reward controlled power and careful patience.
For those seeking an added challenge, a third optional pitch climbs a mellow 5.4 slab, providing a smooth top-out with views that stretch along the Redwood Coast’s rugged shoreline. Before dropping in, take a moment to appreciate the roar of surf below and the sharp tang of sea air; these sensory hints ground you in the unique spirit of this climb.
Protection is straightforward with 8 to 10 bolts along the route, combining recent titanium fixes and some older hardware that remains serviceable for clipping. While the old bolts don’t guard the crux, their presence affords options for cautious climbers who choose to use them or bypass.
Getting down requires two rappels from the top, releasing at the anchors on the Ahab Slab. This descent demands careful attention to rope management and solid belay techniques, as the wall’s exposure amplifies the sense of height.
Magellan's Voyage challenges climbers to blend technical slab skills with the exhilaration of ocean-side climbing. The steady sea breeze, sharp handholds, and clear views make it a rewarding outing for those ready to engage with the setting and the rock. Ideal timing is late spring through early fall when the coast dries out and temperatures balance comfort with challenge. Whether you’re stepping up for your first 5.10 slab or looking to polish your lead on exposed climbs, this route offers a memorable encounter with California’s wild coastline.
The descent involves two rappels from the upper anchors situated on Ahab Slab—ensure your gear is doubled up and tested before lowering. Exposure to ocean winds increases the risk of rope swing; secure your rappel to avoid pendulums. Also, the older bolts on pitch one do not protect crux moves, so clip new bolts where possible.
Start early to avoid afternoon coastal winds that can chill the rock.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the delicate slab moves on pitch two.
Bring extra water; the approach trails have no reliable sources.
Prepare for rappels with a double rope setup for faster descent.
A standard sport rack with 8-10 quickdraws covers the protection needs here. The recent titanium bolts front the crux sections, boosting confidence. Old bolts remain available for clipping but offer limited security on harder moves.
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