HomeClimbingLysdexia

Lysdexia: Bold Sport Climbing on Cougar Canyon's Better Lines

Canmore, Alberta Canada
edges
underclings
runout
sport climbing
short pitch
Bow Valley
bold moves
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lysdexia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lysdexia challenges climbers with confident edging and smooth undercling sequences across a compact 50-foot sport route. It’s a standout climb on Cougar Canyon’s cliffs, blending solid protection with spirited moves that end on approachable terrain."

Lysdexia: Bold Sport Climbing on Cougar Canyon's Better Lines

Lysdexia stands out on Cougar Canyon's cliffs as a compact yet engaging 50-foot sport climb that invites both focus and flow. Starting with confident moves on solid, well-defined edges, the route flows through positive underclings that offer rhythmic rest points. These holds demand a polished touch — neither flashy nor trivial — coaxing you to trust your feet and commit to each move. The climb culminates on easy ground, providing a smooth landing after the sustained vertical challenge. Despite its moderate length, Lysdexia rewards climbers with a solid 5.10b/c pitch that feels dynamic without leaving you hanging on desperate moves. Though bolts are spaced to maintain the sense of adventure, they are reliable and placed thoughtfully to encourage boldness without reckless risk. The approach to Cougar Canyon threads through Bow Valley’s raw wilderness, where fresh air and views of jagged peaks sharpen your anticipation before you clip the first bolt. For climbers looking to sharpen their technical edge on a route that combines practical protection with memorable sequences, Lysdexia offers an accessible yet stirring test of skill in Alberta's climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Bolt spacing includes a runout section requiring confident clipping and control. The rock is generally solid but assess the integrity of holds before committing. Approach trails can be slick when wet—wear sturdy footwear and plan for variable weather.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Trust your footwork on the small edges to conserve strength.

Be prepared for runouts between bolts—commit to movements confidently.

Approach from Canmore via Bow Valley with good trail markers.

Climb during daylight hours to avoid cooler temperatures on the shaded canyon walls.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10b/c rating suits climbers comfortable with technical edging and body tension. While not overwhelmingly sustained, the route’s spacing between three bolts encourages a decisive style of climbing, nudging the grade’s difficulty upward through mental exposure rather than physical cruxes. Compared to nearby sport climbs in Cougar Canyon, Lysdexia feels solidly graded with a slightly bolder character, making it a good stepping stone for climbers familiar with 5.10 sport routes but looking to push their mental mettle.

Gear Requirements

Three bolts protect the route, spaced to maintain runouts that test your boldness but stay within manageable risk. The chains mark the topout, ensuring a controlled finish.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Lysdexia and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

edges
underclings
runout
sport climbing
short pitch
Bow Valley
bold moves