Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingLucky Strikes Again

Lucky Strikes Again: Boulder Canyon’s Steep 5.9 Sport Challenge

Boulder, Colorado United States
steep
sport
moderate
single pitch
morning sun
technical jugs
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lucky Strikes Again
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Steep and unapologetically direct, Lucky Strikes Again offers Boulder Canyon climbers a solid 5.9 sport pitch that blends technical jugs with sustained verticality. Its bright morning sun and bold position make it a standout addition for those looking to sharpen their skills on rock that demands respect without overbearing difficulty."

Lucky Strikes Again: Boulder Canyon’s Steep 5.9 Sport Challenge

Lucky Strikes Again stands out among Boulder Canyon’s growing collection of sport climbs, staking its claim with steep, punchy moves that test both endurance and technique. Located just beyond the more frequented lower walls of Coney Island, this route demands attention with its vertical headwall covered in solid, textured rock. The climb unfolds over a single 60-foot pitch, beginning on a scaly but trustworthy base and quickly transitioning to a series of subtle, yet rewarding jugs that line the steep face. The wall faces nearly due east, soaking in bright morning sunlight that both warms the hands and illuminates the holds clearly, perfect for an early start when temperatures are cool and the approach still fresh.

The approach itself demands focus and a bit of initiative. Starting underneath the bustle of the lower Coney Island sectors, climbers proceed beyond the well-known Dampened Enthusiasm, navigating a slight scramble uphill and rightward before descending a short grassy slope where the route’s bolts appear, a clear marker that the climbing has arrived. Importantly, the upper sectors of Coney Island lie overhead — climbers must resist the urge to explore those higher walls, as the route positioned here keeps you engaged at a unique angle, delivering a direct encounter with a steep and striking face.

From the first clipped bolt, the line offers engaging sequences that reward precise footwork on firm edges and encourages confident pulling on solid jugs. The crux lies in maintaining body tension on the steep headwall, a section where many climbers find themselves gathering breath and, often, letting out a spontaneous whoop of triumph. The rock’s texture offers excellent friction, but the steepness keeps the effort real, making it a serious climb at the 5.9 grade, possibly feeling a tick harder than some comparably rated routes in the area. A sturdy 7-8 bolt protection system supports the climb, capped off with a reliable 2-bolt anchor that’s straightforward for rappels or lowering.

Lucky Strikes Again captures the spirit of Boulder Canyon’s sport climbing scene: bold, energetic, and accessible to intermediate climbers looking to push their limits on sustainably protected terrain. While it demands a bit of stamina and mental focus, the route’s quality holds, impressive exposure, and efficient protection come together in a package that’s both thrilling and attainable.

For those planning their outing, wearing shoes with good edging capability will pay off on the steeper footholds, while chalk and finger tape can help manage sweat during the sustained sequences. Early morning ascents are ideal for a sun-kissed climb and a quieter approach, though by midday the wall basks in warmth, which can be a welcome change on cooler days. Water and snacks for a half-day adventure are wise, as the approach involves some mild scrambling and trail navigation through Boulder Canyon’s rugged yet approachable terrain.

Ultimately, Lucky Strikes Again invites climbers to embrace a sharp, vertical challenge framed by classic Colorado backcountry charm. This is not a route to rush—take your time on the broad shelf mid-route, savor the positioning above the canyon floor, and prepare to share a moment of exhilaration when you reach the top. With its blend of technical climbing and practical protection, it has quickly earned respect as a modern classic for Boulder’s sport climbers.

Climber Safety

The rock quality is generally reliable, but climbers should remain wary of the grassy slope on the approach, which can be slippery when wet. Careful foot placement and a cautious descent are recommended, especially if the terrain is damp.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy the warm morning sun and avoid afternoon heat.

Stick to the approach trail past Dampened Enthusiasm—don’t head up to upper Coney Island by mistake.

Use climbing shoes with good edging performance to handle the steeper footwork.

Bring chalk and finger tape to maintain grip through sustained sequences.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, Lucky Strikes Again feels like a solid, well-earned challenge with steeper terrain than many climbs at this grade in Boulder Canyon. The crux section emphasizes sustained difficulty on good jugs, making it more engaging and energetic compared to softer 5.9 routes nearby.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 7 to 8 bolts, ending at a secure 2-bolt anchor, making it straightforward to clip and rappel. Sturdy quickdraws and a standard sport rack are sufficient.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Lucky Strikes Again and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

steep
sport
moderate
single pitch
morning sun
technical jugs