"Loyalty delivers a crisp, accessible 90-foot sport route on Cascade Crag’s time-tested walls. Find precise clips and engaging moves just across from the Bihedral, perfect for climbers honing their 5.9 skills in the heart of Boulder Canyon."
Loyalty stands out as a straightforward yet satisfying sport climb carved into the rugged face of Cascade Crag, a popular formation within Boulder Canyon. Sitting just across from the distinctive Bihedral, this 90-foot, single-pitch route offers climbers a blend of clean moves and solid bolts that make it approachable without dulling the sense of adventure. The route begins at the right edge of a large flake, identifiable by a cluster of three bolts that invite you into the climb. From here, you’ll navigate around a modest overlap, a short burst of technical climbing that rewards precision and control. The holds shift from firm edges to smoother faces, encouraging a measured rhythm that suits those stepping up to 5.9-.
As your hands and feet stretch across the rock, the environment speaks in the low hum of forest winds whispered through the nearby pines and the occasional call of local birds. The rock itself, textured yet reliable, offers tactile feedback that helps maintain confidence through each move. Notably, the crux falls just beyond the midpoint, where the route bends slightly, demanding both focus and an efficient clip past the seventh bolt. There's a subtle choice here—some climbers clip from the bolt of an adjacent route to the left or right, a detail that rewards prior scouting.
Though the climb is well bolted, with 8 to 10 bolts securing the line, bringing small cams is wise if you prefer added security, especially if you find yourself on the upper edge of your comfort zone. This spot demands thoughtful footwork and careful positioning rather than brute strength. Historically, this line has seen a mix of climbers since the 1980s, possibly first ascended by Ed Ash, and while it draws moderate traffic, its relatively quiet nature preserves a serene atmosphere uncommon in busier areas of Boulder.
Planning your ascent here means preparing for a moderate approach with steady footing on well-marked trails through Boulder Canyon’s pine-shaded terrain. Early mornings or late afternoons provide ideal light and temperature, minimizing glare on the rock and offering cool conditions on warmer days. Hydrate carefully, and wear footwear with solid edging capacity to negotiate the subtle flake moves and small pockets effectively.
Safety is paramount: while the bolts offer solid protection, the anecdote of a climber suffering a fall and breaking an ankle should not be overlooked. Maintaining focus during transitions and clipping sequences is essential. Descending is straightforward, with walk-off paths providing a hassle-free return to the trailhead.
Whether you’re sharpening your sport climbing skills or seeking a rewarding afternoon challenge, Loyalty offers a clear route that balances accessibility with the quiet thrill of Boulder Canyon’s sharp granite. It invites you to connect viscerally with the rock, respond intuitively to the wall’s demands, and savor the natural pulse of this iconic Colorado climbing environment.
While well protected with bolts, falls near the crux can be tricky due to the route’s positioning and potential swing risks. Stay focused on clip placements and maintain steady balance to avoid any mishaps. Previous incidents underline the need for cautious movement, especially for climbers testing their limits.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock temperatures and fewer crowds.
Bring small cams for added protection if you're pushing your limit.
Pay careful attention when clipping near the seventh bolt; some choose to clip bolts from adjacent routes for easier access.
Wear shoes with firm edging to better navigate the flake and overlap moves.
The route features 8 to 10 bolts with solid placement, though bringing small cams can provide extra peace of mind on the upper end of difficulty. The bolt spacing is straightforward, but clipping demands attention near the crux section to avoid awkward falls.
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