"A compact yet challenging sport climb on the Southwest Face of North Gateway Rock, Lower Finger Traverse tests your technical balance along a rightward path edged by the Finger alcove. Ideal for climbers seeking a focused, bolted route with easy access in the iconic Garden of the Gods."
The Lower Finger Traverse offers an engaging sport climb carved into the Southwest Face of North Gateway Rock, sitting within the iconic Garden of the Gods near Colorado Springs, Colorado. This single-pitch route demands a mix of precision and careful movement, drawing climbers into its compact, technical sequence that skirts the Finger alcove's edge. The climb starts by ascending the Tourist Gully, a straightforward approach that sets you up just below the alcove’s rim, where an eyebolt awaits as an initial belay station. From here, the route ventures into a gripping rightward traverse. The rock challenges your balance and footwork as you negotiate three carefully placed bolts along the way, allowing a controlled but lively progress across the face.
This traverse rewards those who remain calm and deliberate, reading the holds like a moving puzzle. As you inch toward the alcove, the walls around you seem to lean in—rocks weathered smooth by time dare you forward, while sun and shade juggle across your skin, emphasizing the rock’s varied texture and temperature. Once inside the alcove, a bolted belay anchors your success, marking a solid endpoint and offering a brief moment to appreciate the adventurous line you’ve just followed.
From here, climbers have two options: rappel down through the chain anchor in the alcove or push onward onto the Upper Finger Traverse, which amps up the difficulty to 5.9 and expands the adventure along the rock’s south face. As a standalone climb, Lower Finger Traverse presents a clever 5.7 challenge—devious in its move complexity rather than sheer overhang or lofty exposure. The modern bolting system, which replaced the older drilled pins, enhances safety without detracting from the route’s character, making it accessible to a broad range of climbers who appreciate technical footwork coupled with robust protection.
For anyone planning a visit, the setting within Garden of the Gods is as much a part of the experience as the climb itself. The red sandstone contrasts sharply with the bright Colorado sky, and the nearby city breathes life and convenience into the adventure. The approach is short, straightforward, and well-trodden, making this a fabulous choice for climbers seeking a technical sport route with quick access and a high payoff. Carry spring water, wear sturdy climbing shoes that excel in edging, and time your climb to avoid the midday heat, as the traverse sees direct sun exposure on warmer days.
Whether you’re ticking off your first 5.7 or honing your sport technique among dramatic formations, the Lower Finger Traverse invites you into an intimate dialogue with the rock. It’s a test of finesse and patience, set against a dramatic Colorado backdrop where nature’s stone walls dare you to explore with skill and intent.
The route is well-protected with modern bolts, but pay close attention to footing during the traverse, especially where the wall narrows near the alcove. Rock is solid but can be sharp in places; gloves for rappelling or sling management are recommended. Approach and rap anchors are clearly marked, though always check anchor conditions before committing.
Start by climbing the Tourist Gully to reach the belay below the Finger alcove.
Bring at least three quickdraws for the bolts along the traverse.
Avoid the midday sun when the traverse faces direct exposure to maximize comfort and grip.
Follow the bolts carefully along the traverse to navigate tricky foot placements and maintain balance.
Modern sport climbing setup with 3 quickdraws recommended for the three bolts on the traverse, plus slings for anchors. The route’s protection features updated bolts replacing old drilled pins, concluding at a two-bolt anchor with chains in the alcove.
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