"Love Gloria offers a stunning water-polished sandstone boulder accessible roadside and creekside along Hwy 33 near Ojai. With a handful of quality climbs including the classic Love Gloria V4, this spot combines easy approach with scenic creek views for an ideal day bouldering."
Tucked alongside the gentle flow of the creek near the N Fork Matilija bridge, Love Gloria stands out as a gem for climbers seeking water-smoothed sandstone bouldering in California’s Central Coast region. This unique boulder presents an approachable vibe, perched just steps from the roadside highway 33, inviting climbers to engage without the need for a long trek. The weather here leans toward seasonal stability, with prime climbing stretches scattered through the cooler months of spring and fall when the sun casts balanced shadows over the rock’s surface.
Arriving is straightforward: park in the turnout just before the N Fork Matilija bridge. From there, a modest trail hugs the east side of the road, leading you down to the creek where the boulder reveals itself — visible from the bridge, as if waiting quietly for your arrival. Its water-polished face glistens, telling stories of years sculpted by creek currents and California’s changing seasons.
The elevation here is modest, sitting at just over 1,100 feet, which pairs with the creekside surroundings to create an inviting atmosphere—not too high in altitude but offering a refreshing blend of nature and adrenaline. Climbers find a compact but satisfying selection of routes here; the standout is the classic Love Gloria problem graded V4, a boulder problem that has earned a loyal following and a strong reputation for its smooth sandstone holds and technical sequence.
While the number of climbs might feel limited, each ascent is filled with detail and character. The sandstone texture demands focused footwork and varied hand positions, perfect for climbers looking to refine their balance and precision. This is a spot where the physical climb converges with a tactile appreciation of the rock’s natural polish, direct interaction with the creek’s melodic backdrop, and the clear open air of the Central Coast.
Be aware that regional access can be affected by periodic closures on Highway 33, so it’s wise to check the latest road reports through Caltrans before planning your trip. The access is straightforward but always best confirmed to avoid unexpected detours.
Love Gloria sits within the broader Hwy 33/Ojai climbing corridor, a lightly trafficked area favored by climbers appreciating intimate settings over crowds. While it doesn’t offer the volume of climbs found at larger bouldering destinations, its creekside charm and unique sandstone character make it a refreshing choice for a short session or a training stop on a Central California road trip.
The boulder’s position next to moving water and close to the road means climbing here requires a few practical considerations. Bring a couple of quality bouldering pads to protect your landing on uneven creekside terrain, and shoes with sticky soles to navigate the polished surfaces. Watch for moisture and algae that can settle near the creek, especially after wet weather, as these can affect traction.
Beyond the immediate climbing, the route to the boulder offers a taste of coastal forest ambiance and occasional wildlife sightings, lending a quiet pulse to your day on the rock. If you time your visit during the shoulder months, you can balance warmth and shade, avoiding the harsher southern California summer sun that can bake sandstone surfaces and sap grip.
In sum, Love Gloria provides a concise but memorable sandstone bouldering experience, melding ease of access with a natural creekside setting. It’s a place for focused moves, technical sequences, and clean fluid climbing, evidenced in the excellent Love Gloria V4 classic problem. Whether you’re passing through on Hwy 33 or carving out a dedicated session, this boulder invites you to connect directly with California’s water-worn landscape.
Due to its location near the creek and roadside, watch for slippery moss or wet rock near the base, especially after rain. Use multiple pads to protect against uneven landings, and be cautious of traffic when parking.
Confirm Hwy 33 access status in advance at Caltrans due to occasional closures.
Bring multiple bouldering pads for safer landings on uneven creekside terrain.
Avoid climbing when the boulder is damp or wet from creek overflow or rain – slippery surfaces can be hazardous.
Plan your visit during spring or fall for pleasant temperatures and balanced direct sunlight on the boulder.
Approach by parking in the turnout near the N Fork Matilija bridge. Access trail runs along the east side of the road leading down to the creek and boulder. Bring 2–3 bouldering pads to navigate creekside landings and ensure comfort on polished sandstone. Check Caltrans for Hwy 33 road closure updates before traveling.
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