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Lost Dentures: A Classic Trad Challenge in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
crack climbing
small cams
thin cracks
walk-off descent
Boulder Canyon
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lost Dentures
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lost Dentures offers a concise but compelling trad climb on Boulder Canyon’s lower tier. Its sharp flakes and thin crack variations deliver technical movement with reliable small to mid-size protection in a setting familiar to Colorado trad climbers."

Lost Dentures: A Classic Trad Challenge in Boulder Canyon

Lost Dentures stands out on the lower tier of Boulder Canyon as a straightforward, steady trad climb that challenges both your technique and mental focus. Beginning at a sharp, obvious flake centered on the face, the route invites you to test your crack skills as you move upward. For those seeking a sharper edge of difficulty, a thinner crack to the left presents a bold 5.10 variation that demands precise hand and finger jams. The climb then veers left, following thin seams and subtle cracks that lead directly to the anchor, rewarding climbers with a satisfying send over its compact 50-foot length.

The approach to this climb is accessible, placing you in one of Colorado's iconic climbing hubs where granite meets adventure. Boulder Canyon’s granite boasts a mix of solid stone with clean crack systems that offer classic trad protection opportunities. This route specifically calls for small to mid-size pro, making your gear selection critical for a confident ascent. Expect placements to require careful evaluation as some holds may feel delicate, putting an emphasis on steady hands and attentive gear placement.

The beauty of Lost Dentures lies in its balance: it offers enough technical engagement to satisfy seasoned climbers without overwhelming those stepping up their trad game. The moderate 5.9 rating might suggest an easier climb, but the thin cracks and precise movements provide a crux that bumps the route’s effort level. Climbers familiar with Boulder Canyon will recognize the blend of demanding crack work with solid protection options, a hallmark of the area’s traditional routes.

Seasonally, Boulder Canyon shines in spring and fall when temperatures are moderate and the rock is dry and grippy. Early mornings reward climbers with cool shade between the canyon’s walls, easing the physical strain that can build on hotter summer days. After summiting, the descent is straightforward with a casual walk-off that returns smoothly to the base, giving you time to savor the satisfaction of a well-earned climb without complicated downclimbing or rappels.

Essentially, Lost Dentures invites you to engage with the rock’s natural breaks, challenging your footwork and gear placement while offering a taste of classic Colorado trad climbing. Perfect for those stepping into more technical crack routes or those who appreciate a short yet focused climb that emphasizes quality over length. This route’s combination of straightforward approach, manageable protection needs, and granite’s crisp texture make it an ideal pick for a crisp morning in Boulder Canyon.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the approach trail and remain cautious on the small gear placements in thinner sections; take time to verify placements before trusting them fully. Weather can change quickly in Boulder Canyon, so plan accordingly and stay aware of afternoon storms.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy cooler granite surfaces.

Double-check your small gear placements on the thin crack; trust your feet and hands equally.

The walk-off descent is quick but stay aware of loose scree on the trail back.

For a tougher challenge, try the left 5.10 thin crack variation with steeper moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, Lost Dentures demands thoughtful technique on thin cracks that elevate its difficulty beyond a pure beginner climb. The thin crack variation pushes the challenge to 5.10, requiring additional finger strength and precision. This route compares well with other classic Boulder Canyon trad routes that emphasize crack work and gear placement over overhanging power moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on small to mid-sized cams and nuts to comfortably protect the various flake and thin crack sections. Be prepared for placements that require precision and patience, especially on the thinner cracks.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
small cams
thin cracks
walk-off descent
Boulder Canyon