"Lost Boys offers an engaging four-pitch trad route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, weaving through handcracks and ledges with solid gear and exposed views. This climb presents a manageable yet gripping introduction to the canyon’s rugged vertical world."
Lost Boys stands as a compelling introduction to the rugged, unforgiving terrain of Colorado's Black Canyon of the Gunnison. This four-pitch trad route unfurls along rocky contours that challenge both your technique and judgment, offering a hands-on experience perfect for those stepping into big-wall cracks for the first time. The approach alone sets the tone, as you descend Grizzly Creek Gully, a somewhat hidden bypass east of the more traveled Cruise Gully, to reach the base of the climb. Expect a steep, 90-foot rappel that drops you onto slabs angled sharply beneath looming rock bands.
The climb begins just above a large chockstone, rising steadily through nearly 350 feet of solid handcrack climbing that rewards steady footwork and a steady rack. The rock here feels reliable, gripping your hands like a steadfast partner on the wall. Past this, the route veers into terrain of slightly rougher texture; the rock is less consistent but never threatening, demanding attention without overstepping its welcome. Each pitch reveals new nuances — from the delicate balance required to navigate ramps with careful foot placements, to the rewarding sense of exposure as you gain ledges that offer sweeping vantage points over the canyon’s sheer walls.
Lost Boys doesn’t shy away from the canyon’s raw edge — patches of flaky stone challenge your route-finding instincts, particularly around a big roof section you may want to avoid. This refusal to sugarcoat the climb is a reminder of the Black Canyon’s uncompromising character. The final pitch concludes on a spire, perched above the infamous Chasm View and Checkerboard Walls, where you can pause to take in the immense vertical relief and dramatic shadows stretching across Colorado’s wild heart.
Gear-wise, this route calls for a standard rack capped by a #3 Camalot. Doubling up on hand sizes is advisable to handle the lengthier pitches comfortably, especially as ropes drag through the narrower crack systems. The approach trail demands sturdy footwear—expect loose rock and uneven terrain during your descent.
To make the most of your experience, plan your climb in favorable weather windows when the canyon’s sun and shadow patterns balance out. Early spring through fall offers the best conditions, avoiding winter’s icy grip or summer’s intense heat. Keep an eye on rock quality, particularly on the upper pitches where flakes may hinder confident placements. Descent is straightforward but requires vigilance as you retrace steps toward the canyon rim, descending slabs and navigating gullies to return safely to base camp.
Lost Boys captures the steely independence of Black Canyon climbing — accessible for those ready to step up and thoughtful enough to respect the rock’s quiet demands. It’s a route that leaves you with sturdy skills, a deeper connection to this extraordinary landscape, and memories of vertical adventure carved into stone.
Rock quality varies on the upper pitches with some flaky sections—carefully test placements and avoid loose holds. The rappel into the climb is significant and requires attention to rope management. During descent, watch footing on slabs and loose scree to prevent slips.
Approach via Grizzly Creek Gully and prepare for a 90-foot rappel to the base.
Double up hand-sized cams to efficiently protect long pitches.
Avoid trying to push through the big roof on the second pitch due to flaky rock.
Descend by hiking toward the canyon rim; watch footing on steep slabs.
Standard trad rack up to #3 Camalot recommended. Bring doubles in hand-sized cams for longer crack pitches and watch for potential rope drag on traverses.
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