Rising sharply from Yosemite Valley’s northern edge, the Lost Arrow Chimney presents a climbing route that condenses raw verticality and physical demand into an unforgettable journey. This classic trad climb extends over 1,100 feet and stretches across 10 pitches filled with intricate cracks, wide chimneys, and technical face climbing that tests both endurance and skill. Approaching the route means preparing for a substantial trek through the forested valley below—a winding path that gradually reveals the spire looming overhead in cool shade.

As you start the climb, the right-hand crack invites you up the first pitch, leading to a switch to the left crack before reaching a belay ledge. The rock’s texture here is firm, offering reliable edges to establish your rhythm early on. Progressing upwards, longer pitches bring a variety of challenges: a notable wide roof on pitch three demands precision with thin face moves on its left side, while the expansive chimneys on many floors push your ability to maneuver in tight, awkward stances.

Pitch six is an infamous crux pitch, one that blends daring movement with a bit of mental grit. Climbers confront an awkward move to cross a gap, trusting hand and foot placements on unsettled rock, followed by a leap back into the chimney where protection can feel uncertain. For those who prefer a less daunting route, staying strictly within the chimney at 5.10 difficulty offers a direct but muscular alternative, requiring solid crack technique and patience for bulky gear placements.

The extensive chimney pitches above frequently challenge with looseness and unreliable rock. Be prepared for some loose flakes that test your trust in each hold. Eventually, the route transitions into a sequence punctuated by a newly replaced bolt on pitch eight, facilitating a difficult crux where reach becomes crucial. This section rewards climbers who balance power and calm finesse, as the move after clipping demands a confident grip in a slightly overhanging position.

The final pitches offer options: the upper flare system presents a 5.10a face climb outside of the chimney, or a tight chimney bypass that favors smaller climbers. The choice here depends on your style and team dynamics, as each path blends exposure with technical demands. Concluding at the famous notch, the route connects hikers to the Tyrolean Traverse for those prepared to extend the adventure by one more day.

Gear up with a comprehensive rack featuring doubles from green Aliens to #2 Camalot, and big cams such as #5 and #6 for wide crack protection. Expect to place gear frequently, varying between secure cams and occasional pitons; protection here is demanding but fair for those willing to commit to solid placements. Water is essential—climbers report that even in comfortable temperatures the route’s length and shade mask dehydration risks. Hauling supplies on a second rope is a practical solution, especially on multi-day link-ups.

Planning your ascent means evaluating stamina and gear readiness, with an approach and descent that require endurance as much as the climb itself. The walk-in through Yosemite’s northern valley zone carries quiet forests and intermittent sun patches, setting a calm contrast to the exposure waiting above. Descending via the notch’s rappel anchors or walking off involves careful route-finding but rewards with views that frame Yosemite’s sprawling granite walls under wide open skies.

Balancing technical climbing, physical endurance, and scenic surroundings, Lost Arrow Chimney stands as a historic challenge that joins Yosemite climbing lore with your next adventure. It is a route where preparation meets opportunity and the mountain’s voice dares you to rise, reach, and overcome.