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Lopin’ the Mule: A Bold Sport Climb at El Potrero Chico

Monterrey, Nuevo León Mexico
sport climbing
multi-pitch
technical crux
bolted
endurance
limestone
El Potrero Chico
Length: 230 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Lopin’ the Mule
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lopin’ the Mule offers a sustained, technical three-pitch sport climb in northern Mexico’s El Potrero Chico. With solid bolts and a crux that demands precise technique, this route challenges climbers ready to push their limits on steep limestone walls."

Lopin’ the Mule: A Bold Sport Climb at El Potrero Chico

Lopin’ the Mule stands as a compelling challenge within the rugged expanse of El Potrero Chico, a world-class climbing destination in northern Mexico. This bold sport route stretches over three pitches totaling approximately 230 feet, combining sustained difficulty with careful protection that invites serious climbers ready to test their endurance on steep, technical terrain. The approach to the climb begins on Strokin’ The Bishop, a 35-meter access pitch that sets the tone with a blend of moderate movement leading to an inviting ledge. From here, a scramble rightwards toward a recently installed ring bolt belay initiates the climb proper, demanding 14 quickdraws to negotiate the bolt line.

The second pitch features a notable upgrade: a crucial bolt mitigates the former runout crux near the bottom, opening the route to confident moves rated from 5.10+ into sustained 5.11 climbing. This section balances delicate foot placements against well-spaced protection and culminates at a hanging belay perched on a narrow foot rail, providing a momentary breather before the final push.

The upper pitch unfolds over nearly 40 meters with around 20 draws, demanding steadiness and mental focus as it sustains mid-5.11 difficulty. Roughly a third of the way up, climbers encounter the route’s crux at 5.11d/5.12a. Here, the rock demands precise technique and stamina, testing both finger strength and body positioning on overhanging terrain. Be mindful of the rock quality near the summit, where some sections may feel loose, requiring cautious movement and attentive protection.

Descending Lopin’ the Mule is now more accessible thanks to new rappel stations located both mid-wall and at the top, installed slightly left of the main line. These fixed anchors allow rappels using a single 70-meter rope in three stages, a clear upgrade over previous descent methods that required more complex negotiation of the cliff face.

El Potrero Chico itself offers an immersive climbing experience against a backdrop of dramatic limestone walls, peppered with sun-bleached ledges and craggy overhangs. This particular route demands solid sport climbing skills, a well-developed rack of quickdraws, and endurance for sustained sequences that reward precision and calm confidence. The route’s orientation means early departures are ideal to capitalize on morning shade, while late spring through early fall provides the best weather window, avoiding extreme heat common in the region.

For climbers keen to tackle Lopin’ the Mule, preparation is key: hydrate thoroughly, bring sturdy climbing shoes that offer sensitivity on small edges, and carry enough draws for the full length. Approach times are reasonable, but the climb’s logistics and protection upgrades make it suitable for intermediate to advanced climbers who want a memorable day challenging themselves on a technically demanding, well-protected sport route in one of North America’s premier limestone arenas.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the top where protection is reliable but the rock quality varies. Use caution on the final pitch, and double-check rappel anchors before descending, especially during hot or wet conditions when rock stability can shift.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length230 feet

Local Tips

Start early to benefit from morning shade on the wall.

Bring a full rack of quickdraws—20+ recommended to avoid skipping bolts.

Check rock quality carefully near the top, especially where some sections feel loose.

Stay hydrated and pace yourself for the endurance demands of the final pitch.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11d, Lopin’ the Mule presents consistent sustained climbing with a crux that pushes into 5.12a territory. The bolt upgrades have softened the runout feel, making this route a more solid test of endurance and technique than nerve. Climbers familiar with El Potrero’s sustained walls will find this comparable to routes like St. George’s Crack but with slightly more technical face climbing.

Gear Requirements

The climb is fully bolted with fixed anchors for belays and new rappel stations installed in 2019, supporting three rappels for safe and efficient descent using a single 70m rope. Expect to bring 14 draws for the lower pitches and up to 20 for the long third pitch.

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Tags

sport climbing
multi-pitch
technical crux
bolted
endurance
limestone
El Potrero Chico