HomeClimbingLoose Bolt Slab

Loose Bolt Slab: A Compact Alpine Challenge on Mt. Evans

Evergreen, Colorado United States
slab climbing
runout
scramble approach
crumbly rock
single pitch
back-cleaning
alpine environment
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Loose Bolt Slab
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Loose Bolt Slab offers a focused alpine cragging experience on Mt. Evans with sparse protection and a mix of slab climbing and crumbly moves. Ideal for trad climbers seeking a short, engaging route that tests both mental focus and gear management amid expansive alpine surroundings."

Loose Bolt Slab: A Compact Alpine Challenge on Mt. Evans

Loose Bolt Slab sits quietly on the limestone faces above Lincoln Lake, offering a short but sharp alpine experience for those comfortable with a touch of runout and varied protection. The approach begins with a scramble to a grassy ledge secured by a single, somewhat loose bolt. Though its stability is questionable, this bolt plays a critical role in preventing slips, serving as a precarious yet valuable anchor for climbers and their packs alike.

From this ledge, the route veers right into an easy, inviting corner that climbers often solo to gain a second ledge. Here the real climbing starts. The pitch moves left onto a vertical face, unprotected at first, searching for a horizontal crack where small cams provide critical pro. This section demands careful footwork and precise placements; the rock’s texture shifts beneath fingers and toes, sometimes crumbly, challenging both confidence and technique.

Continuing left along the seam, protection improves with larger cams that offer reassurance but still call for cautious movement. Removing gear here requires back-cleaning, a tradeoff well worth the effort since the crux lies near the pitch’s upper half. Advances lead to the first of several fixed bolts, 30 to 40 feet above the initial loose bolt, signaling a shift to more straightforward but runout terrain.

The last bolts guard thin, fragile moves where the slab’s quality deteriorates, demanding concentrated attention and prudent body positioning. A modest cam might be slotted to safeguard a final runout to the anchors, completing a single 140-foot pitch that tests both mental tenacity and technical ability.

This route is not lengthy but delivers a concentrated alpine flavor typical of Mount Evans, blending route-finding, gear placements, and subtle rock features. With only a half dozen cams required—from small to medium sizes—and some bolts scattered for peace of mind, the protection feels sparse yet honest, making it essential to be comfortable with the consequences of occasional runouts.

The surrounding area reflects Colorado’s high alpine environment: scant trees give way to open views while wind whispers across exposed faces. Time your climb for morning or early afternoon when sun warms the slab without overheating the thin rock. Due to the route’s exposure and crumbling sections, dry conditions are crucial.

Descending involves a rappel into grassy ledges or a careful downclimb, demanding attention for loose rock and secure footing. Preparation is key: sturdy footwear, a well-balanced rack with cams prioritized for small cracks, and a precise knowledge of bolt locations will ensure a safer ascent.

Loose Bolt Slab invites climbers ready for a compact alpine test, where strategy and composure punctuate each move. It’s a route that rewards those who respect its subtle dangers and embrace its straightforward but demanding alpine character.

Climber Safety

Loose bolts and crumbly patches require extra caution. Make sure to test all fixed gear before weighting and proceed carefully on unprotected moves. The grassy ledges can be slippery when wet, so avoid climbing right after rain or snow melt.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid warming brittle limestone during peak afternoon sun.

Carry a precise cam rack focused on small to medium sizes; larger cams are rarely useful here.

Be prepared for runouts and focus on solid footwork on slabby, crumbly sections.

Check bolt stability before weighting; the initial bolt is loose but still useful as a sling anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating here reflects a climb that feels slightly more serious than a typical 5.9 slab due to protection gaps and loose rock. The crux near the top bumps the difficulty with technical slab moves on fragile edges, demanding steady nerves and trusted gear placements. Compared to other Mount Evans routes, it leans toward an accessible but cautious style rather than bold or gut-wrenching.

Gear Requirements

A rack of small to medium cams fills the protection needs with about six pieces suggested. The route mixes loose bolts with natural gear placements, requiring comfort with back-cleaning and spotty protection on the crux.

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Tags

slab climbing
runout
scramble approach
crumbly rock
single pitch
back-cleaning
alpine environment