"Lookout on Northern Tooth offers a hands-on alpine trad climb that rewards thoughtful route-finding across varied cracks and ledges. With six pitches weaving from class 4 terrain into low 5th climbing, this route challenges your skills while delivering stunning views of the Southern Sierra."
Lookout on Northern Tooth offers climbers an alpine trad experience that challenges both your route-finding skills and technical climbing instincts. Situated within the rugged expanse of the Southern Sierra near Courtright Reservoir, this 500-foot climb unfolds over six pitches that reward careful decision-making with a mix of crack systems and varied terrain. The approach begins just north of a large dead conifer, where early season snowfields might delay your start but add a striking element to the environment. The initial 200 feet traverse class 4 and low 5th class terrain, where the angle gradually steepens and rope becomes essential as you approach a small pine marking the beginning of sustained technical climbing. Pitch one tests you with a right-facing corner peppered with loose rock and natural obstacles demanding attentive rope management to avoid causing falls or rockfall hazards. Moving rightward keeps the route safer for the belayer and navigates the clearest path up the face. The subsequent pitches continue this trend, with options to skirt easier slabs or push crux sections that range from 5.2 to 5.8, offering something suitable for climbers refining their alpine crack techniques. A unique highlight is a cool two-foot wide column sling on pitch three, giving a memorable hold on the varied terrain. As you advance through pitch five, be prepared for jam-packed crack systems where a BD #4 cam proves invaluable, emphasizing the importance of a well-stocked rack. The final pitch rewards your effort with interesting stemming cracks between Northern Tooth’s rugged towers and a summit view that opens to the expansive Sierra backcountry. Descending requires downclimbing some easy 5th class moves before trailfinding to a saddle on the southwestern flank, making good route knowledge essential for a smooth exit. All told, Lookout blends straightforward alpine crack climbing with an engaging natural setting that keeps you alert and connected to the mountain. It’s an excellent choice for climbers looking to practice judgment and technique amid some of California’s exciting high country.
Loose rock presents a clear hazard on the lower pitches—take care with rope drag and avoid falling debris by careful positioning. The descent involves downclimbing and trailfinding; unfamiliar climbers should study the route carefully and be prepared for exposed sections without fixed anchors.
Start near the large dead conifer; early season snow can block alternate approaches.
Rope up before the small pine where consistent 5th class climbing begins.
Traverse slightly right on early pitches to minimize rockfall onto your belayer.
Downclimb easy 5th class moves on the southeast side for descent, then follow a faint trail to the saddle.
Bring a standard trad rack up to a BD #4 cam; nuts and tricams are essential for solid anchor placements. A 70m rope will allow combination of the last two pitches with careful rope management.
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