HomeClimbingLooking for Trouble

Looking for Trouble: A Two-Pitch Trad Challenge on Monkey Skull

Lyons, Colorado United States
hand crack
squeeze chimney
two pitch
sunny aspect
technical placements
traditional gear
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Looking for Trouble
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Looking for Trouble offers two pitches of engaging trad climbing on Monkey Skull’s sunlit face. With technical hand cracks and a challenging squeeze chimney crux, this route is perfect for climbers ready to explore a less-traveled wall in Colorado’s St. Vrain Canyons."

Looking for Trouble: A Two-Pitch Trad Challenge on Monkey Skull

Looking for Trouble carves a distinctive niche within the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon’s rugged landscape—an adventure that combines raw, technical climbing with the quiet solitude of an uncrowded line. This two-pitch trad route, rated a modest 5.9-, welcomes climbers eager for a challenge that balances careful technique with a sense of exploration. Situated on the right side of Monkey Skull where afternoon sun lingers, this climb reveals a compelling sequence of hand cracks, overhangs, and dihedrals that test both body and mind.

Starting just beyond a cluster of uninviting blocks, and veiled behind a lone tree, the initial pitch offers a left-leaning hand crack that beckons climbers into the heart of a right-facing dihedral concealed beneath an overhang. This section demands precise placement and secure footwork, with thin fingers locking into corners that require focus rather than brute strength to negotiate. The route’s subtle complexity unfolds over roughly 60 to 70 feet, terminating at a broad ledge where climbers can pause and take in the canyon’s muted hues and steep, forested slopes below.

The second pitch ups the ante with a distinctive squeeze chimney—a move that forces you to wedge in tight, applying deliberate turns to maneuver through a physically demanding crux rated at the climb’s high point of 5.9. The chimney’s constricted space tests balance and body positioning, provoking that moment of edge-of-the-seat tension rarely found in more trafficked routes. Successfully emerging from the squeeze unlocks easier terrain ascending to the upper ledge, where the climb eases off and offers an opportunity to savor the earned vista and prepare for descent.

Accessing Looking for Trouble requires a thoughtful approach. The trailhead begins near Lyons, Colorado, with a hike that crosses geological boundaries and hints at the varied ecosystems found within St. Vrain Canyons. The trek up to Monkey Skull is straightforward but demands sturdy footwear as rough, uneven terrain slows the pace. Allow about 30 to 45 minutes to reach the base, granting a quiet start before afternoon sun graces the crag’s right flank.

Protection along the route consists primarily of standard rack gear focused on cams and nuts suitable for hand-sized cracks and dihedrals. Placements can be technical, requiring careful judgment to ensure safety on the overhang and squeeze chimney sections. Fixed gear is minimal to nonexistent, reinforcing the climb’s traditional nature and inviting climbers to hone their gear skills.

This climb invites a measured respect—not so much for overwhelming technical difficulty, but for the mental focus required to navigate the chimney and the often overlooked subtlety of crack climbing. The uncluttered environment also offers a dose of solitude rare in more popular local climbs, making it ideal for those looking to escape crowds and immerse themselves in a rhythm dictated by rock and route, not speed or competition.

For those preparing to climb Looking for Trouble, timing your outing to enjoy the afternoon sun on the right side of Monkey Skull is key. Water, a light pack, and plenty of patience during the approach add to a smooth, rewarding day on the rock. Descending involves a careful walk off to the right from the upper ledge, making sure to stay aware of loose blocks and slippery patches, especially after wet conditions.

Embrace this route as a blend of hands-on tradition and quiet wilderness. It offers a climb that tests technique and willpower while connecting you with one of Colorado’s lesser-known canyon walls. Whether it’s a first venture into St. Vrain Canyons or a seasoned revisit, Looking for Trouble delivers a memorable day of focused climbing in a dramatically natural setting.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock behind the initial blocks and near the squeeze chimney’s exit. The crux demands both physical and mental focus; a fall here could be hazardous. The walk-off descent has uneven terrain—take care to avoid ankle twists, especially in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start your approach early to catch afternoon sun on Monkey Skull’s right side.

Bring sturdy hiking shoes for the uneven trail to the base.

Pack plenty of water; there are no natural sources nearby on route day.

Descend by walking off right from the upper ledge, watch for loose rocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels fair but leans toward the challenging end due to the squeeze chimney’s physical crux. Unlike straightforward 5.9s, this route demands careful technique and composure. Compared to other local routes in St. Vrain, it’s a modest step up in technical difficulty but remains accessible for confident leaders.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams and nuts is essential. Expect technical hand crack placements and the need for secure protection in the squeeze chimney section—no fixed gear available.

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Tags

hand crack
squeeze chimney
two pitch
sunny aspect
technical placements
traditional gear