HomeClimbingLong Time No See

Long Time No See: A Beginner-Friendly 5.9 Trad Escape on The Apron

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
north-facing
crack climbing
bolted anchors
multi-pitch
beginner-friendly
roof moves
slab
finesse
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
9
Location
Long Time No See
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Long Time No See delivers an accessible yet engaging trad route on The Apron’s north face in Squamish. With nine well-protected pitches and a shady aspect making it ideal for summer climbs, it offers steady crack climbing and short cruxes perfect for trad novices stepping into 5.9 territory."

Long Time No See: A Beginner-Friendly 5.9 Trad Escape on The Apron

Set against the towering granite face of The Apron in Squamish, British Columbia, Long Time No See offers a refreshing introduction to trad climbing for those ready to push into 5.9 terrain with confidence. Beginning just left of Calculus Direct, this route breaks down the wall into manageable, well-protected pitches that gently challenge your skills amid the cool embrace of a north-facing cliff. As you ascend, the sun’s heat becomes a distant memory, thanks to the shady aspect, perfect for warm summer days when other routes bake under direct sunlight.

The climb unfolds over nine distinct pitches, each bringing its own rhythm and character. The first pitch is unique—a short, somewhat awkward move off a fixed line before pulling onto the face, with reliable bolts guiding your path. An optional harder 10a direct start adds length and technical intrigue if you want to extend your warm-up.

Pitch two rewards you with steady climbing toward a small roof, where a brief challenge awaits. The crack widens here, allowing placements for larger cams—especially useful if you carry a #5—but a well-placed #3 and #4 Camalot will generally suffice. From there, pitches three and four move swiftly, reminiscent of favorite sequences on nearby routes like Calculus Crack, balancing smooth hands and fists crack climbing with low-angle slabs.

Midway through, you’ll encounter a mix of crack types and climbing styles. Pitch six’s layback up a handcrack gains a roof that requires some delicate moves traversing beneath it—an enjoyable and engaging section that demands attention but doesn’t overwhelm. Pitch seven then shifts focus to finesse on a thin, left-leaning crack protected by a mix of bolts and gear, offering a slightly awkward but rewarding rhythm that brings you to a belay near the tops of Calculus and St. Vitus.

The final two pitches ease back into easier cracks layered with more vertical ground that tests steadiness and footwork, ending at bolted anchors atop a large boulder. Here, the cliff opens to views of the surrounding peaks, signaling your objective’s completion.

For descent, the scramble up to Broadway Ledge is straightforward for those with route-finding skills, or you can opt to rappel via a series of bolted anchors. The rappels are well-established, but they demand attention to detail, especially if your rope length or familiarity with the anchors varies. The route’s protection is solid for beginners stepping into multi-pitch trad; doubles to a #2 Camalot cover most placements, plus a single #3 and #4 for the cruxes and wider cracks. If you’re less comfortable with large gear, packing an extra #3 might ease your confidence.

Long Time No See blends approachable climbing with scenic Squamish exposure and cool, shady climbing that makes it a practical choice for hot days. The well-bolted anchors and ample gear placements lower the stress, freeing you to enjoy the tactile sensation of clean granite, the echo of your protection placements, and the gradual unfolding of the route toward the summit. For those seeking a route that introduces the rhythm of multi-pitch adventure without overwhelming, this climb is a memorable gateway into Squamish’s classic walls.

Plan your climb to avoid rainy periods—wet granite becomes tricky on slab sections—and bring sturdy footwear with solid edges to manage the slabby details. Hydration and a layered approach to clothing will keep you comfortable, as the north-facing aspect means sudden temperature changes can sneak up. Early starts help you stay ahead of afternoon thermals and maximize your time on the crisp, shadowed faces.

Long Time No See isn’t just a route; it’s a practice in flow and patience, a gradual push into Squamish’s granite heart, where every bolt and every crack asks you to read the stone and rise to the moment.

Climber Safety

Though well-protected, some pitches feature awkward or tenuous moves, especially on the first and seventh pitches. Maintain vigilance on slab sections, particularly when wet or humid, as friction can become marginal. Descents require careful rappel management—check bolts and use appropriate rope length for a safe retreat.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches9
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the heat and enjoy cooler temps in the shade.

Wear shoes with good edging for slabby sections on pitches 3 and 4.

Expect some awkward moves on the first pitch; consider the direct 10a start if comfortable.

Bring a 60m rope if planning to link pitches or for rappels from the descent anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels approachable, with most pitches offering solid, moderate climbing interrupted by short cruxes. The grade leans slightly soft for traditional standards thanks to the protection quality and generally moderate moves, but a few pitches demand precise footwork and body positioning. Climbers familiar with nearby routes like Calculus Crack will find the feel comparable, with similar clean hand and fist cracks and slab sequences.

Gear Requirements

Doubles to a #2 Camalot cover most of the placements, with a single #3 and #4 Camalot sufficient for wider sections. If you’re less comfortable with large cams, consider carrying an extra #3 for added security, especially on pitches with short roofs and varying crack sizes. All anchors are bolted, simplifying belay transitions.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Long Time No See and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

north-facing
crack climbing
bolted anchors
multi-pitch
beginner-friendly
roof moves
slab
finesse