"Long Branch is a sharp, technical sport climb on a slender arete at Gunsmoke Wall. The route combines demanding moves around two distinct bulges with an accessible top section, making it a compelling single-pitch challenge in Big Bear’s rugged San Bernardino Mountains."
Long Branch offers a compelling sport climb on a pronounced arete that captures both concentration and dexterity throughout its short, intense pitch. Starting near the base, the route pulls you into a series of precise moves along the sharp edge of the rock, delivering engaging movement that challenges your balance and body positioning immediately. As you press upward, the rock’s character shifts — the lower half commands full attention with its technical holds and subtle shifts, pushing the climber through two distinct bulges that test finger strength and foot placement. Beyond this demanding section, the route eases as the terrain opens into a fractured slab leading to comfortable anchors. The top-out area provides a moment of relief and an excellent vantage point over the Gunsmoke Wall area, framed by the rugged expanse of the San Bernardino Mountains.
Located on the Central Pinnacles of Holcomb Valley Pinnacles within Big Bear’s northern reaches, this climb thrives on its straightforward approach and well-weathered terrain. The sharp arete stands out clearly against the wall, giving climbers a visible goal that is both inviting and exacting. Due to the limited length— just 45 feet— climbers can expect a concentrated burst of difficulty, particularly in the lower sections, before hitting the easier upper plateaus. The route’s sport protection, set with five bolts and a chain anchor, secures a reliable safety net, though the spacing invites focused clipping and attention.
Approach to Long Branch is direct, requiring a hike through open scrub and rocky outcrops from established parking near Big Bear Lake. The trail leads in approximately 20 minutes, crossing loose terrain that demands sturdy hiking shoes and cautious footing. Once at the base, the rock’s smoothness invites thorough inspection—holds are mostly solid, but some sections above the bulges show signs of breakage and erosion. This requires mindful climbing when transitioning out of the crux area. Ideal timing to tackle this route is mid-morning to early afternoon, when the wall basks in sunlight but avoids the hottest hours typical of Southern California’s dry summer days. Aim for spring or fall seasons to experience pleasant temperatures and stable rock conditions.
For climbers eyeing a focused 5.10a test piece packed within a single pitch, Long Branch delivers a balanced offering of challenge and accessibility. This climb is perfect for sport climbers looking to sharpen technical prowess on sharp features while enjoying the impressive setting of the San Bernardino range. Whether you’re refining your clipping technique or seeking a quick but satisfying push on the rock, this route rewards attentiveness and precise movement in equal measure.
The upper section of the climb presents fractured rock that can be loose or fragile; climb carefully when exiting the crux to avoid dislodging holds. Also, the approach trail’s loose scree demands careful footing to prevent slips en route to the base.
Start mid-morning to avoid midday heat on the sun-exposed wall.
Wear shoes that excel on sharp, small holds for best grip on the arete.
Check weather conditions for dry rock; the upper broken section softens grip when damp.
Approach trail includes loose gravel—use footwear with good traction and take it slow.
Equipped with five bolts and a chain anchor, protection on Long Branch allows safe clipping, though spacing calls for steady focus. Bring a quickdraw set of at least six draws to cover potential extensions if desired.
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